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While they may not be as well-known as their counterparts in fashion, these talents are responsible for creating the makeup collections of great luxury houses, catering to both runway shows and retail needs.
Let’s take a closer look at who they are and where they were trained.
Everyone has heard of Jonathan Anderson, Alessandro Michele, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Anthony Vaccarello or Hedi Slimane. Fashion enthusiasts—and even those with only a casual interest—are familiar with the designers behind the collections of the most prestigious houses. Some creative directors have become so iconic that simply mentioning their names, like Karl Lagerfeld or Pharrell Williams, is enough to recognise their influence, even for those outside the industry.
But if we were to ask: who is the makeup creative director at Saint Laurent? Or at Hermès? That’s a tougher question. Only a handful of true beauty enthusiasts can name those behind the makeup collections that complement and elevate the aesthetic vision of top fashion houses—often working quietly behind the scenes.
Yet, their role is fundamental. They don't just devise the colourways or style of palettes and foundations; they also select raw materials, collaborate with lab researchers, define textures, and even introduce new technologies—all while ensuring brand coherence. They shape the cosmetic identity of a brand, helping to prolong the dream that every luxury label represents, even with something as simple as lipstick or eyeshadow.
They work closely with the heads of major cosmetics companies, collaborating on projects and envisioning future trends. Students of the Master's in Fragrances & Cosmetics Brand Management course learn their names and, through prestigious partnerships, are given opportunities to engage with their vision. A beauty brand manager must be able to build a creative dialogue with these masters of colour and brushes, reflecting a spirit of innovation and exploration—a world of new chapters to write, blending art and business.
« I love working with creative directors; I believe it’s a vital part of our industry » said Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO of Kering, at the Change Makers in Luxury Fashion event organised in Milan by Camera della Moda and Zalando. Although she was referring to fashion, her insights are equally relevant to the beauty industry. « There must be mutual trust,» she added, « They need to understand and respect one another. Creative directors are a fundamental part of our world.».
Now, let’s discover the creative minds behind some of the most powerful aesthetics in makeup. They’re often out of the spotlight but no less influential. This is also an opportunity to understand just how valuable a cross-disciplinary education — one that embraces the arts, fashion, and visual culture—can be in pursuing a career in this field.
Peter Philips
Creative and Image Director of Dior Make-up
The Creative and Image Director of Dior Make-up is Belgian, trained at Antwerp’s Académie Royale des Beaux-Arts, and boasts a long-standing career in the world of make-up, having collaborated with numerous brands and photographers, such as Dries Van Noten, Fendi, and Peter Lindbergh. In 2008, he joined Chanel as Creative Director, a position Vogue described as « the most coveted job in cosmetics ». Among his most iconic creations during that period was the Jade nail polish, which sold out spectacularly upon its 2009 release and still fetches astronomical prices on eBay. He joined Dior in 2014 and quickly made an impression with his innovative creations. An experimenter at heart, he uses backstage settings to introduce new product concepts. His graphic eye designs have been imitated worldwide.
Pat McGrath
Artistic Director of Future Louis Vuitton Makeup
She is the Artistic Director of the long-anticipated Louis Vuitton make-up line. British by origin, she studied art at Northampton College, but her career took off when she met powerful fashion figures such as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, who gave her a creative push.
Pat, who goes by the name « Mother », is recognised by her peers as the queen of fashion week backstages and has been described by the industry press as « the most influential person in make-up worldwide ». While she is now associated with Vuitton, her journey includes top-tier collaborations (from Armani to Dolce & Gabbana). In 2015, she launched her own line, Pat McGrath Labs, which has featured backstage and on the sets of major productions, including Netflix’s Bridgerton, for which she created a dedicated collection.
Tom Pecheux
Global Beauty Director at Yves Saint Laurent - under L’Oréal licence
He was appointed Global Beauty Director at Yves Saint Laurent – under licence with L’Oréal – in 2017. A native of France, he originally studied culinary arts and even worked as an assistant pastry chef in a top Parisian hotel before making his debut in make-up as assistant to Linda Cantello (a legend in the industry and former Artistic Director for Armani make-up). He has worked alongside some of the greatest photographers, managing backstage beauty for the most prestigious fashion houses. His taste for experimentation and innovation has led to the creation of iconic looks and products.
In the profession, he is especially known for his dark and ultra-sensual smoky eyes.
Thom Walker
Artistic Director of Makeup at Givenchy
The Artistic Director of Make-up at Givenchy – since 2022 – is British, though he trained in Paris with M.A.C.. Returning to the UK, he gained hands-on experience working in the beauty department of Harvey Nichols in Leeds. He describes himself as a fan of « simplicity », advocating for looks that reflect the essence of the person wearing them, without overdoing it.
His signature red lipsticks have become a hallmark and reflect Thom’s love for art and architecture.
Gregoris Pyrpylis
Creative Director of Hermès Beauty
Appointed in 2023, the charismatic Greek make-up artist now leads Hermès Beauty. Born into a family of pharmacists, his career took off in 2006 when he was hired as a make-up artist for M.A.C. in Greece. Before entering the world of cosmetics, Gregoris studied English literature. For him, make-up should reveal the person behind it. Ask him about his hero product, and he’ll name blush, which he applies with lightness and artistry, hands and brushes dancing in motion.
The Outsiders
These make-up artists represent a freer creativity, guided by an independent and artistic vision of beauty.
They are courted by less « traditional » fashion brands, to whom they bring their unique energy.
Isamaya Ffrench
British-born Isamaya Ffrench has a distinctly eclectic background: an artist (including body painting), musician, and contributor to numerous fashion and art magazines before her creativity caught the attention of Christian Louboutin Beauty, Byredo (for both of which she served as Artistic Director), Tom Ford, and Burberry. In 2022, she launched her own brand, Isamaya. In 2024, Nike designed a special edition Air Max with her.
Lucia Pica
Of Italian origin, Lucia Pica trained in London at the Greasepaint School of Make-up. Her big break came when she became assistant to make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury.
After being appointed by Chanel in 2014 as Global Creative Make-up and Colour Designer, she was named Creative Image and Make-up Partner at Byredo in 2022. She adores colour, is a devoted fan of lipstick, and enjoys painting in her spare time.
