How to make it as an independent brand in Italy? Marco Rambaldi shows the way
A star has emerged in the constellation of fashion designers. Just two years ago, Valentino partnered with CNMI-Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana to showcase the live runway show of a promising Italian designer on its Instagram channel. That creative soul turned out to be Marco Rambaldi, born in 1990 and hailing from Bologna. Pierpaolo Piccioli, the former creative director of Valentino, recently left his position amidst sombre sentiments from industry insiders; he was one of the first industry giants to recognise Rambaldi’s fashion prowess. His young brand was established in 2017 and has shown a commitment to challenging conventions while advocating for inclusivity from the outset, which was apparent to Piccioli.
Italian designer Marco Rambaldi, a guest speaker at the "Inverse Fashion" talk during the "Hyper Essentialism" Front Row event hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano
Rambaldi’s rise to independent brand status in Italy is a testament to his unique vision—a remarkable achievement among emerging designers. While Italy is home to a wealth of creative talent, Marco Rambaldi stands out for his unparalleled ability to captivate audiences, both locally and internationally. Undoubtedly, his commitment to values such as equality, community, and sustainability has propelled Rambaldi to his esteemed status today, earning him a place among the 10 finalists of the prestigious Cnmi Fashion Trust Grant during its third edition. This coveted award was established by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in 2021 to support the growth of emerging brands.
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Marco Rambaldi’s global appeal is rooted in Bologna, celebrates multiculturalism, and showcases his talent for creating complete looks. His designs feature expertly crafted knitwear and intricately crocheted embroideries made by assembling existing antique doilies reminiscent of his great-grandmother’s legacy. In addition to his fearlessness and commitment to inclusivity, Rambaldi is dedicated to upcycling and embodies kindness, all of which define his fashion ethos as a force for liberation poised to explore uncharted territories.
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Rambaldi’s journey has been fraught with challenges, but his recent participation in the “Hyper Essentialism” Front Row event, hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano during Milan Fashion Week, demonstrated his resilience and determination. As a guest on the “Inverse Fashion” talk, Rambaldi shared insights into his path, reflecting on how his radically youthful, emotionally charged, boundary-pushing aesthetic helped him overcome adversity and achieve success while solidifying his brand’s identity.
Bologna: Muse and Metropolis
Marco Rambaldi, a true-blue native of Bologna, not only resides in his city but finds inspiration in its very essence, hailing it as the quintessential muse.
Marco Rambaldi at Istituto Marangoni Milano
“It’s an inclusive city, a trailblazer in recognising LGBTQ+ rights. I rediscovered it after leaving for studies and work, delving into its history through the narratives of those who shaped it,” he shared.
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Starting from the Bottom
Regarded as an innovator in the Italian fashion landscape, Marco Rambaldi didn’t skyrocket to success; instead, he embraced hard work and perseverance.
Marco Rambaldi at Istituto Marangoni Milano
After graduating in Fashion Design, he gained experience with renowned brands such as Dolce&Gabbana, where he initially specialised in embroidery before taking on a key role in knitwear.
Evolving Aesthetics Rooted in the Past
Marco Rambaldi’s vision combines the 1970s Italian bourgeoisie with a fresh, modern aesthetic.
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On his website, the designer explains that his narrative embodies both destruction and the necessity for survival—a fusion of opposites, a love letter to the present.
Upcycling Blends Sustainability With Shared and Personal Memories
In a sincere reflection, Rambaldi fondly remembered his journey into upcycling. He recalled the vintage crochet hooks passed down from his grandmother and how he skillfully brought new life to vintage doilies, infusing them with a modern and perhaps even alluring quality that resonates in each collection.
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Marco Rambaldi sees upcycling as more than just sustainability; it represents a journey of rediscovery, where the echoes of the past blend with the present to illuminate the path ahead. Ultimately, by revitalising what might be considered outdated but holds significant personal and communal value as a memory, we gain a clearer vision of what we seek to create.
Fostering Authentic Connections and Love Amidst the Digital Age
Marco Rambaldi truly understands the importance of human connections, emphasising the significance of simple gestures and timeless values such as love. To him, love is not just a fleeting emotion; it’s a daily renewal, an experience to be cherished each day, not only with a partner but also with our surroundings. During his talk, he passionately advocated, “Let’s embrace each day as an opportunity to fall in love as if it were the very first time.” These core principles resonate deeply with the enduring legacies of Franco Moschino and the creative work of Jean-Paul Gaultier—founders of two iconic brands he hopes to collaborate with in the future.
Istituto Marangoni Milano students attending the "Inverse Fashion" talk with Italian designer Marco Rambaldi
In an era increasingly captivated by the transient allure of virtual interactions, Rambaldi laments the erosion of genuine connections, stating that “today’s society sacrifices authentic relationships at the altar of the ephemeral existence of social media.”
Redefining ‘Made in Italy’ Beyond Quality: Exploring Italian Culture and Tackling Challenging Themes
In our conversation with Marco Rambaldi, we gained insight into the evolution of his collections. He shared how he reinterpreted the concept of ‘Made in Italy,’ not merely as a marker of quality but also within its cultural framework. Rambaldi emphasised the importance of shedding light on this aspect, expressing pride in his efforts.
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He credited brand strategist, author, and fashion expert Andrea Batilla for being one of the earliest supporters who believed in him. Batilla’s guidance and support empowered Rambaldi to address challenging topics within his work.
Championing Diversity
“I’ve always been drawn to individuals with unique stories to share. I distance myself from the narrow confines of standard sizing,” asserted Marco Rambaldi.
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Rambaldi’s vision is radical and unwavering, which is evident in his collections, where authenticity reigns supreme. Setting himself apart from many fashion brands, he always emphasises the importance of casting that reflects diversity. Rambaldi views the prevalent hypocrisy in the industry, where the inclusion of a few curvy models in fashion shows is seen as enough to proclaim diversity and assuage the guilt of a sector that has long been exclusive and exclusionary. To him, everybody has a narrative, and the designer’s role is akin to that of a psychologist: meticulously studying each individual’s appearance and attire to curate a cast characterised by diversity.
Fashion with a Social Purpose
Marco Rambaldi’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week for the Fall-Winter 2024/25 women’s collections bore the evocative title “Memento amori,” translating to “remember that you must love.”
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As the lights dimmed and the music began, Rambaldi’s runway not only showcased avant-garde signature fashion but also served as a platform for social consciousness, embodying the designer’s commitment to leveraging fashion as a conduit for meaningful change. Seamlessly intertwined with the fashion catwalk was a social message advocating for freedom, further amplified by Rambaldi’s participation in the #useyourvote initiative. This initiative, timed ahead of the European Parliament elections on June 8th and 9th, 2024, aimed to galvanise the younger demographic towards political engagement
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“Believe in inclusion, equal rights, love, nature, recycling, beauty, education, sustainability, democracy, respect, freedom, culture. Believe in yourself, use your vote, and believe you can make a difference. Usa il tuo voto,” read Marco Rambaldi’s manifesto, echoing through the venue and resonating with attendees. Symbolising this message were T-shirts adorned with twelve hearts, representing the unity of the European Union. This motif was reinforced by the distribution of pencils, encouraging active participation in the upcoming elections.
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In this runway, the word ‘together’ resonated as a profound expression of the verb ‘to love.’ Marco Rambaldi, who is naturally emotional and effortlessly absorbs the essence of his surroundings, finds inspiration in every facet of the world around him.
As the conversation neared its end, a tangible wave of emotion enveloped the room. It was a profound sentiment stirred by Marco Rambaldi’s remarkable capacity to connect deeply with both the youth and the present. The lingering question—“What’s the secret to success as an independent brand in Italy?”—found its answer in the very presence and essence of Marco Rambaldi himself.
Istituto Marangoni Milano students attending the "Inverse Fashion" talk with Italian designer Marco Rambaldi
