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Oct 11, 2023

Who’s your celeb icon? Sofia Coppola, so you’re a TikTok coquette girl

With the premiere of her latest movie, Priscilla, at the 80th Venice International Film Festival, Sofia Coppola has taken TikTok by storm. Alongside her first published book Archive, this has given rise to a renaissance of “coquette core” (which had already been bubbling to the surface), an aesthetic deeply associated with Tumblr and all things frilly, pretty, and pink.

@mack_books We are thrilled to present the very first book by Sofia Coppola, covering the entirety of her singular and influential career in film.⁠ ⁠ Constructed from Coppola’s personal collection of photographs and ephemera, including early development work and unseen behind-the-scenes documentation, it offers a detailed account of all eight of her films to date.⁠ ⁠ Available to preorder now in a limited run! #sofiacoppola #booktok ♬ original sound - MACK

But what exactly is the Coquette aesthetic? Somewhat perversely, Coquette Core can be traced to Vladimir Vladimirovič Nabokov’s 1955 novel Lolita, which follows the controversial story of the obsession of a middle-aged French literature professor, known under the pseudonym Humbert Humbert, for a 12-year-old girl, Dolores Haze aka Lolita (a nickname he gave her). The novel was later adapted to the screen by Stanley Kubrick in 1962 (introducing Lolita’s iconic red, heart-shaped sunglasses) and by Adrian Lyne in 1997. Stills from both movies were reposted to Tumblr in the early 2010s and quite naively twisted in nature to represent a loving relationship. Lolita’s frills, heart-shaped glasses and overall hyper-feminine clothing then inspired the aesthetic we now know as Coquette Core.

@lanas.star.girl so coquette 🎀🍰 #lanasstargirl #lanadelrey #coquette #coquetteaesthetic #aesthetic #vintageamericana #dollette #femcore #feminine #lanastan #foryoupage #fyp #foryou #coqxette #lanadelreyvinyl #girlboss ♬ original sound - ⋆ ׂ 。evie﹗୨ৎ ࣪ ˖

Although it has moved away from its dark origins, the aesthetic now represents a cute, sensual attitude combined with a hyper-feminine girlish style. With its recent emergence on TikTok, this style no longer represents a sexualised young girl but rather a female character who is aware of her femininity and the power that comes with it. Coquette Core isn’t just a fashion trend but a complete lifestyle. Everything reflects how Coquette you are, from your makeup to how you decorate your room. Above all, this aesthetic is about romance and romanticising your own life. 

This hyper-feminine aesthetic is represented no better than with Sofia Coppola’s extensive filmography. She has a distinct eye for portraying the female journey and what it means to be a woman. Coppola has stated multiple times that she aims to make films that express what it is like to be a teenage girl and to help people understand what it’s like to be one.

@lolabourjac Coppola teenage girl era 🫦 #sofiacoppola #sofiacoppolaaesthetic #sofiacoppolaedit #fyp ♬ original sound - Lola 𖦹 

One of Coppola’s most popular Coquette Core works is the 2006 film Marie Antoinette, starring Kirsten Dunst. The ‘I Want Candy’ scene, which shows an indulgent Marie Antoinette and her friends, is a perfect representation of everything the aesthetic claims to be: endless shades of pink, frilly shoes designed by Manolo Blahnik, lace accessories, and hyper-femininity taken to the extreme. 

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Un post condiviso da Sofia Coppola (@sofiacoppola)

Backstage photos of the film set have also gone viral in the coquette space, with one showing Kirsten Dunst fully decked out in her 18th-century gear while holding a MacBook.

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Un post condiviso da Nasty Nostalgia (@conde.nasty)

Another viral photo shows Sofia Coppola herself wearing a mini skirt and t-shirt while directing Dunst, laying down in a beautiful white and pink lace corset dress surrounded by bright pink cake. 

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Un post condiviso da Film File Media (@filmfilemedia) 

With its bright millennial pink cover, the book Archive provides a detailed look into the behind-the-scenes moments of Sofia Coppola’s career. It extravagantly features dozens of pictures of pink sets, teenage girls, and frilly accessories. Unsurprisingly, Coquette girls have embraced the book with open arms.

@stefymdlt The wind was a paid actor. Full unboxing video coming soon. #sofiacoppola #sofiacoppolaarchive #sofiacoppolabook #marieantoinette #marieantoinettemovie #coquette #coquetteaesthetic #cottagecore #cottagecorevibes #booktook #artbook #girlhood #girlvibes ♬ Playground Love (feat. Gordon Tracks) - Air 

Set to release in 2023, Priscilla is the latest addition to this concept that traces through an entire body of work. The film follows the life of Priscilla Presley, from her meeting with the iconic Elvis to the ups and downs of their relationship. 

Priscilla’s aesthetic, visible in the stills shared online and the Youtube trailer, which has almost two million views, is yet another iteration of Coquette Core, albeit with a 1960s twist. The entire film screams Coquette with plenty of makeup, brightly painted nails, Peter Pan collars, polaroids of Priscilla wearing lace, and a soft pink wallpaper with tiny flowers. A Coppola renaissance was bound to happen, and it’s no surprise that Gen-Zers would lead it on TikTok. 

@ethereal_c Sneak peak of Jacob Elordi as Elvis in Sofia Coppola’s Priscilla 🎀 so excited omg i’m already obsessed just by looking at these pictures #sofiacoppolapriscilla #sofiacoppolaarchive #sofiacoppolabook #sofiacoppolastyle #jacobelordi ♬ My man - 𝔥𝔬𝔫𝔢𝔶𝔪𝔬𝔬𝔫

Coquette Core is an aesthetic deeply linked to girlhood and femininity and aims to reclaim the power of being a woman. Film director Sofia Coppola is one of the many inspirations in this space and is spearheading the movement, perhaps unknowingly. Want to incorporate a Coquette touch into your style? Buying a copy of Archive could be a great first step!

 

 

Constanza Coscia
Editor and alumna, Milan 
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postgraduate-Master's Degrees · Master's Courses · Master of Arts