The 5 biggest trends for FW 2024/25, straight from Milano Fashion Week Men’s
The men’s fashion month kicked off, transforming Florence, Milan and Paris into hotspots for insiders, journalists, buyers, and the trendsetting talents jet-setting in from every corner of the globe. Right on the heels of Pitti, Milano Fashion Week Men’s FW 2024/25 has wrapped up, leaving us eager to spill the tea on what went down in the front row.
A snapshot from the Prada Fall-Winter 2024/25 menswear show. Courtesy of Prada
The burning question on everyone’s mind is one and only one: What trends are set to dominate the next winter months? Almost everything from the luxurious style of Dolce&Gabbana to Prada’s deep focus on human nature and our surrounding environment, Pronounce’s punk-infused tailoring and Brioni’s pushback against AI.
A look from the Dsquared2 Fall-Winter 2024/25 show. Courtesy of Dsquared2
However, the men’s fashion landscape has changed significantly. The overarching theme on the runways wasn’t just about masculinity—it was also a celebration of femininity and how it can blend seamlessly with menswear. This shift is evident not only in co-ed shows like Dsquared2 and JordanLuca but also in the way wardrobes are mixed and matched to create a sophisticated look.
Streetwear, once the undisputed king of the fashion scene, took a backseat this time around. It’s not that the fashion warriors of FW24 must sacrifice comfort – hell no! There were winter sandals strutting their stuff, cosy garments embracing you like a warm hug, and enough knitwear to make grandma jealous. However, it marks a departure from the recent reign where sneakerheads and sweatpants guys held the crown, drawing more inspiration from the timeless art of tailoring than the influences of the street.
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Missed out on a front-row spot? No need to panic. As the curtains close on Milan Fashion Week Men’s, let’s uncover the next wave of trends that will rewrite the rules of menswear for the upcoming winter.
It’s a Man’s World Celebrating Femininity
The approach of infusing femininity to elevate men’s wardrobes appears to have become a predominant trend. Many men’s fashion shows have incorporated stolen references from women’s closets, proposing a catwalk untethered by gender barriers because “a collection is just a collection,” as remarked by Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of Fendi’s accessories and menswear. According to the designer, the upcoming winter will usher in wide pleated Bermuda shorts reminiscent of a kilt, forming part of a functional and luxurious Scottish weekender repertoire.
A snapshot from the Gucci Fall-Winter 2024/25 menswear show. Courtesy of Gucci
Sabato De Sarno’s debut in Gucci’s menswear struck ‘ANCORA’ with Jackie bags and seductive flickers of bling-bling, indicating De Sarno’s willingness to challenge stereotypes.
Work, Baby, Work in Workwear
In a recap of the FW24 men’s fashion shows, workwear seems to be a major influence on the wardrobe.
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From Todd Snyder’s reinterpretation of the contemporary man’s work uniform for Woolrich Black Label to Andersson Bell’s aviator looks and Neil Barrett’s fusion of fabrics and details from hunting and workwear into new garments.
Embrace the Water
A spirit without barriers defines the adventure undertaken by Emporio Armani, where sharp silhouettes are paired with military boots.
A snapshot from the Emporio Armani Fall-Winter 2024/25 menswear show. Courtesy of Emporio Armani
The collection exudes the charm of the sailor and the spirit of travellers with navy hats, aviator shades, and rope-detailed belts.
The Prada fashion show featured an office-like setup with brown carpets and blue wall dividers partitioning the cubicles, each equipped with desktop computers adorned with the brand logo. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ guests sat on grey swivel chairs while the runway, a transparent floor, revealed tufts of grass below and a babbling brook meandering across polished stones.
The show space at the Prada Fall/Winter 2024/25 menswear show
Dazed’s Elliot Hoste noted, “It was humdrum artifice on top of idyllic nature, perhaps in reference to the daydreaming of escape we all do while trapped in our 9-5s.” He added, “There was also a touch of the apocalyptic to it: how long would it take for flora and fauna to reclaim the man-made when all the humans are gone?” The water served as a catalytic element, announcing a collection where tradition and experimentation intertwine in a rework of the Italian bourgeoisie. The FW24 Prada man alternates formal coats with a Canadian tuxedo, wears goggles and a pool cap, and puts on sandals as well as lace-ons.
The New Fashion Obsession? Athletes
In the fall/winter season of 2024, the question ‘which team do you support?’ is expected to be more popular than even ‘who designed your dress?’. The hottest trend in fashion features an array of T-shirts inspired by the world of sports. These are often paired simply with trousers and coats, as showcased by Canali.
Two looks from the Giorgio Armani Fall-Winter 2024/25 show. Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
An alternative, striking approach is seen in Giorgio Armani’s collection, which eliminates the traditional shirt to emphasise a new sense of physicality.
So, How Am I Doing with My Belt?
Accessories come in many forms, but few can match a belt’s elegance, style, and personality. With the slightest movement of the hips, it peeks out to draw attention to itself. Mixable and matchable, the belt ensures a cool-outfit effect; this has always been a mantra of Prada, and, in their FW 2024 collection, it hits the nail on the head. The same goes for Dhruv Kapoor (supported again by Istituto Marangoni for the styling) and Federico Cina, with mini belts surfacing to cinch jackets and coats to add a real touch of style!
Two looks from the Federico Cina Fall-Winter 2024/25 show. Courtesy of Federico Cina
Every fashion event has its unique set of rules. During Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW24, classical elegance and tailoring with a twist dominated the runway, infused with a touch of femininity, fluidity, and attention to detail. My advice for your shopping during the upcoming cold season remains unchanged: “Buy less, choose well, swap clothes.”
Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan
