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Jan 10, 2024

Milan vs Paris – Which style capital will reign supreme this fashion month?

Get ready for a fashion rollercoaster as the upcoming month reshapes the battle for the coveted fashion capital. Milan will light up with Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno’s menswear and Stone Island debuts, while Paris will shine with Valentino and Balmain comebacks. This enduring style clash between Italy and France is gearing up for another historic chapter. 

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Brace yourself for a battle of creativity, emerging talent, extravagant big shows, and business prowess. Who will seize the throne and claim the Fall-Winter 2024/25 menswear crown? Only the fashion weeks hold the answer, but the calendars might already be dropping subtle hints. 


Milan Men’s Fashion Week Drops a Fire Calendar, Solidifying Italy’s Reign in Menswear

Last chance for menswear mavens: Milan Men’s Fashion Week FW 2024/2025 (Jan 12-16) boasts seventy-four events, streaming live on CNMI’s website. Anticipate emerging brands, debuts, and comebacks. After showcasing wearable yet impactful looks in the latest editions, what’s on the FW 24 agenda? Get ready for a series of daily surprises starting with Sabato de Sarno’s first-ever Gucci menswear show on day oneAs the day unfolds, Stone Island is set to showcase its first runway, unveiling the brand’s future vision in a Manifesto, as per CEO Robert Triefus.  

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The much-anticipated comeback is none other than Fendi returning ‘home’ on Saturday 13 after a stint in Florence during the last Pitti Uomo edition. As customary for recent seasons, Jonathan Anderson will showcase JW Anderson’s menswear in Milan, grabbing the spotlight on Sunday 14 as the final show of the day—the women’s FW24 collection will hit the runway in London, maintaining the bond with the UK capital. Other noteworthy brands set to make a statement in Milan include MSGM and Dolce&Gabbana on Saturday, Prada on Sunday, and lastly, Dhruv Kapoor, a mentor at Istituto Marangoni Mumbai, along with Giorgio Armani and Zegna on Monday. The last day, Tuesday, January 16, is entirely dedicated to digital presentations by emerging brands.

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Regarding new entries, Pronounce, the street tailoring label by Yushan Li and Istituto Marangoni alumnus Jun Zhou, has caught our attention. They will present their first menswear and womenswear show in Milan on Sunday, the 14th.

Must-see shows include Dsquared2 on the last slot of the opening day, Neil Barrett and JordanLuca on Saturday 13, K-Way and Andersson Bell on Sunday.  

Carlo Capasa, the President of the CNMI-Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, has confirmed the strength of Italian fashion worldwide. “Forecasts for year-end 2023 show Italy’s fashion industry recording 4% growth in sales, with a total of around Euro 103 billion,” he stated. “Men’s collections account for 20% of clothing and accessories sales and are up 5% on the previous year at Euro 11 billion.”


Paris Men’s Fashion Week – LV’s Pharrell, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli Are Ready to Take It All

After Milan, all eyes will turn to the City of Light. From January 16 to 21, the official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode will list 74 houses that will unveil their Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collections through 42 shows and 32 presentations. Tuesday will kick off with three runway shows, including Burck Akyol and Auralee, closing the day with Louis Vuitton’s creative director Pharrell Williams, who debuted last June on the Post Neuf.

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The lineup will continue with notable names. Wednesday will shine the spotlight on Lemaire, Bluemarble, Wales Bonner, and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi. After Matthew M. Williams’ departure from Givenchy, the French house will present the FW 24 collection designed by its in-house studio on the runway. Thursday will bring a stellar showcase featuring Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Amiri, Yohji Yamamoto, Dries Van Noten, and AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi. 

Come Friday, January 19, the focus will shift to brands from the Comme des Garçons universe, featuring Junya Watanabe Man and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. Other Japanese heavyweights joining the lineup will include Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, and Kenzo. Additionally, brands from Asia, such as Seoul’s Juun.j, will make their mark. Friday’s spotlight will also shine on Paul Smith and Dior’s menswear brilliance, as imagined by Kim Jones.

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On Saturday, January 20, Paris Men’s Fashion Week will witness the return of two major houses to the catwalk after a 4-year hiatus: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s menswear for Valentino and Olivier Rousteing’s for Balmain. “In the meantime, the Roman house showcased its men’s line in Milan last June, shedding light on it after three years of coed runways. Rousteing’s menswear designs were revealed through showroom appointments,” noted WWD’s Lily Templeton. Loewe, Hermès, and KidSuper will also shine on Saturday. The excitement will continue on Sunday, January 21, with Japanese brands Sacai and Doublet taking the stage and GMBH making a comeback to close Paris Men’s Fashion Week. 

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However, some notable names will be missing from PFW. “Among those sitting out this men’s session are Études, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, expected to showcase his Fall 2024 collection in February, and Marine Serre,” Templeton continued. Serre announced that she would unveil her men’s designs through a lookbook and host a women’s show during Paris’ ready-to-wear schedule.



Silvia Tarini
Editorial team, Milan