Anatomy of Loewe: How Jonathan Anderson Shaped the It brand of 2023
Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson keeps pushing the boundaries of fashion, design, art and crafts. Maybe that’s why he made the Lvmh-owned Spanish company the It brand of 2023.
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It is not a traditional brand but a brand with tradition and a clear mission to revive the firm’s codes.
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It is undergoing visible change, embracing innovation without abandoning its heritage, and we can’t help but admire the enormous talent of Jonathan Anderson for making it happen. Each of his works demonstrated a new beginning aiming to enhance art, craftsmanship, design, fashion and nature.
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Despite joining the digital and metaverse trend, especially during the Covid-19 pandemic, Loewe has never stopped evoking emotions, where the artisanal know-how and the human factor are always present.
Loewe Spring-Summer 2023 womenswear collection featured pixelated clothing and accessories including pixel hoodies
Over the years, Loewe has fostered important collaborations with international artists and has grown consistently, preserving its legacy.
As we wait for Jonathan Anderson to show Loewe’s new Spring-Summer 2024 menswear collection this Saturday, let’s delve into the brand’s history and its never-ending transformations.
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The beginnings
Loewe is the result of a brand in love with leather and craftsmanship. This passion, and unwavering quality standards, make it appear to our eyes as a historic brand committed to its values.
Today one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, its story began in Spain in 1846 as a workshop and collective dedicated to leathermaking, and ever since, they “have valued artisanal techniques in our approach to modern design and refined manufacturing”, as the Loewe website reported.
Loewe's Amazona bag, launched in 1975 and celebrated for its fine leather
So, the brand’s successful trajectory has been defined by an undisputed passion: craftsmanship. In 1965, Loewe launched its first ready-to-wear fashion collection, followed by the debut of its Amazona bag in 1975. The French luxury group LVMH acquired the house in 1996.
Understanding the spirit of today’s Loewe by Jonathan Anderson
Today Loewe’s designer is Jonathan Anderson, one of the leading designers of his generation due to his work with his brand, JW Anderson, and his position as the Madrid fashion house’s creative director.
@fashiontomax J.W. Anderson is an introvert of the fashion industry 😂 #jwanderson #loewe #fashionshow #designer ♬ Makeba
Anderson earned a degree from the London College of Fashion before launching his JW Anderson menswear brand in 2008 when he was barely 24.
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He moved into womenswear in 2010 and was then appointed creative director of the Loewe fashion house in 2013, after Lvmh, the company behind Loewe, Louis Vuitton and Dior, acquired a minority stake in the JW Anderson brand. In 2015, he became the first individual to be awarded both Womenswear and Menswear Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. In 2018 he was appointed to Loewe’s Board of Directors.
The most recent chapter in Loewe's story has been marked by the appointment of Jonathan Anderson as creative director in 2013
In the same vein as Loewe, Anderson is driven by respect for traditional artisanal practices while pushing the boundaries of modern expression. As a result, he has given the brand a renewed but genuine vision.
Don’t miss the Asian brand ambassadors
Say hello to Loewe’s new images! Named at the beginning of 2022, the South Korean K-pop girl group NMIXX comprising Haewon, Lily, Sullyoon, BAE, Jiwoo and Kyujin, represents the first case of a group being LOEWE ambassadors.
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With their fun and quirky outfits, they bring a fun energy and encourage a more futuristic side. Proof of this is the brand’s SS23 pre-collection, in which they wore strappy dresses personalised for every group member with their faces printed on them, definitely pushing their limits. Each custom-made dress is constructed in technical duchesse satin with a computer-generated face print and delicate chain straps.
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Award-winning Chinese actress Tang Wei was also announced as a new global ambassador for the house. With an entirely different style from the K-pop girl group, she radiates elegance and glamour. “Known for her dedication to the art of acting and prismatic approach to style, Tang Wei shares Loewe’s bold sense of modernity and unwavering commitment to craft,” the brand stated. With this combination of opposites, Loewe’s purpose is precisely to achieve vibrant chemistry.
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Go digital, stay real
Despite its traditional roots, the brand clearly knows how to reinvent itself. Presented in September 2023 during Paris Fashion Week, the Loewe Spring-Summer 2023 womenswear collection by Jonathan Anderson showcased unprecedented three-dimensional, pixelated garments inspired by the IRL Minecraft world and the metaverse.
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With 3D stitching, short one-piece dresses, trousers and hoodies were amplified to the max, creating a sense of virtual reality in a physical environment. Viewers at the show allegedly questioned whether what their eyes saw was real; the amazing thing about it is that each look is tangible and wearable as if it were a classic collection.
The brand’s digital push managed to captivate followers, as they confirmed they wanted to wear these clothes and show off in them.
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Iconic yet ironic: the playful side of Loewe
The brand advertising campaigns reflect the company’s attitude towards new horizons. They are undoubtedly a key piece in its repositioning puzzle. The SS23 pre-collection campaign, in collaboration with fashion photographer Juergen Teller, confirmed the fact.
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Celebrities such as actresses Taylor Russell, Chloë Sevigny, Naomi Ackie and director Luca Guadagnino starred in it. Taking individuality as a starting point, Loewe launched a colourful and fun collection captured in an extravagant photoshoot with quirky settings like an old kitchen.
Loewe's Spring-Summer 2023 pre-collection campaign by Juergen Teller
Without losing sight of Teller’s wry sense of humour, the photographs reflect forceful surrealism. The models pose with the brand’s most iconic bags, such as the Puzzle, and wear pieces from the Chinese Monochrome collection, which expresses a deep connection to ancient ceramic techniques and their history.
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An ode to craftsmanship
Loewe’s values are excellence, innovation, passion and integrity. As a high-quality luxury brand, they only select the best leather materials for their creations, providing garments with unmatched softness, flexibility and shine.
Additionally, all Loewe bags are the result of a long and delicate hand-sewing process, where artisans ensure that every stitch is sewn to perfection, blending tradition and innovation.
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Loewe’s preservation of art and culture is reflected in actions, as they created the Loewe Foundation Craft Award, the world’s first international award for contemporary craftsmanship.
Combining traditional techniques and new technologies, the brand approaches modern design and refined manufacturing, bringing each unique and contemporary piece to life. Its rich artisanal legacy is endowed to future generations, preserving its authenticity and soul.
Patricia López González
Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, 3rd-year, Milan
