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Jun 19, 2024

At Pitti, I spotted the 5 definitive spring-summer 2025 menswear trends

Unveiling Pitti Uomo 106 in 5 trends to digest in 5 minutes: tenniscore, yellow outfits, ultra-light fabrics, no-iron shirts, and classic neckties


Good vibes with lemon, “somewhere between a tennis ball and a rugby ball,” reads the press release from the Pitti 106 trade show, which has chosen the citrus fruit as the theme for its June 2024 edition. While we could spend hours contemplating the link between this symbol of positive energy and the gorilla depicted in a sea of lemons in urban artist Bolo’s artwork—resembling graffiti on the wall of the Lyceum, the entrance to Pitti’s Fortezza da Basso—it’s time to grab pen and paper and turn our attention to the fashion trends we discovered at the event. Here’s what I found out about the menswear trends for spring-summer 2025 directly from Pitti.

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Un post condiviso da Pitti Uomo (@pittiuomo_official)

Goodbye Cowboycore, Welcome Tenniscore

Once, hats and Western belts filled wardrobes, but today’s trend is all about racket sports. On one hand, Superga celebrated its 2750 shoe, which transformed the world of footwear when it was introduced in 1925 as the world’s first tennis shoe featuring a vulcanised natural rubber sole, later becoming an iconic shoe worn by Italian tennis players in the ’70s and ’80s. Meanwhile, Macron made a splash at Pitti Uomo 106 with its debut high-end collection dedicated to padel.

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Un post condiviso da Superga (@superga_official)

Sportswear continues to blur the lines between athletics and everyday wear, evolving into athleisure. At Pitti Uomo 106, brands like Antony Morato and Save The Duck presented collections that combined technical fabrics with elegant yet modern designs. Key pieces included tailored track pants, bomber jackets, and multifunctional outerwear. These spring-summer 2025 men’s wardrobes highlight the trend towards practical clothing that supports an active lifestyle while maintaining a polished look.


When Life Gives You Lemons, Create a Yellow Outfit

Lemon yellow? Egg yolk yellow? Or acid yellow? The choice is yours, as long as sunny shades become part of men’s spring-summer 2025 wardrobes.

The vibrant, energetic theme of the Florentine trade show “Pitti Lemon” also served as a colour guide for its guests. The best street style looks featured pinstriped suits and accessories with a touch of yellow, fearlessly embracing boldness.

Fashion enthusiasts who are ready to go into OOO mode and head to the seaside will be thrilled to discover that the new trend combines yellow with the vibrant hues of the ocean. From Kampos crab-printed swim trunks to Doria 1905 bucket hats, not forgetting the classic slippers and flip-flops, are you ready to ride the wave of style?

@stylemagazineitalia Inizia oggi a Firenze la 106esima edizione del Pitti Uomo e noi siamo qui per scoprire tutte le novità dei brand. Il tema di questa stagione è "lemon" e lo si può abbondantemente vedere nell'allestimento della fiera, in cui passerelle e stand riprendono questo colore. Non possono mancare tra gli ospiti i cosiddetti "Peacock" i dandv dai look riconoscibilmente ispirati ad una mascolinità di altri tempi, quasi vintage, caratterizzata da completi tre pezzi, cappelli di paglia, bastone da passeggio, foulard e cravatte colorate. Se ci siete anche voi, non dimenticatevi di prendere la vostra copia di Style Magazine di giugno, oggi solo al Pitti. #pittiimmagineuomo #pittiuomo106 #menstyle #stylemagazineitalia #fashion #moda #tiktokfashion ♬ U MAKE ME GO - Who's That Girl?


The Lighter, The Better

The need to rediscover wardrobe fundamentals in their purest form, moving away from excessive logomania while still paying attention to details, seems to be the modern man’s lifestyle. The trends for men’s spring-summer 2025 reveal a shift towards understated elegance, yet with a preference for lightweight fabrics and sophisticated suits from established brands like Stefano Ricci and Brunello Cucinelli.

Speaking of lightness, we must mention swimwear and the new, lightweight fabrics for men’s swimsuits made possible by the latest advancements in technology.

The world of sneakers for spring-summer 2025 has also embraced this trend, with ultra-lightweight nylon uppers and feather-light yet thick soles, exemplified by the NexX4™ sole featured in the Element collection by ACBC X Garmont Uncharted, debuting at Pitti 106.

“Light and responsible” seems to be the new go-to for fashion enthusiasts, with many opting for knitwear and tricots even in the summer for sweaters and accessories as they strive to minimise excess.


The Shirt You Need for Effortless Style (No Iron Required)

At Fortezza da Basso, there was an explosion of shirts in every fabric and silhouette, much to the delight of those who detest ironing. This isn’t a joke; it’s reality.

It’s true that t-shirts, once a symbol of casual street style, have now become a key item in men’s wardrobes that can be worn seamlessly from morning till night for any occasion. These shirts have transformed from stiff, starched garments into cutting-edge pieces that are ideal for travel, as they can be neatly folded without creasing. 

So, as we look forward to spring-summer 2025, there are no more excuses to leave shirts hanging in the closet just because you’re worried about ironing them during the holidays.

Thinking about next summer, shirts with fresh and cheerful prints are making waves, as exemplified by Eton, the Swedish brand returning to Pitti Uomo 106 after a five-year hiatus.

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Un post condiviso da Eton Shirts Official (@etonshirts)

Tie-ing the Past to Present: The Timeless Comeback of the Necktie

Dear Carrie Bradshaw, it’s time to pass the tie back to your partner because it’s making a comeback. Prominent in the men’s collections for spring-summer 2025 showcased at the trade show, the tie also stood out as a symbol of elegance at Pitti Uomo 106 among its guests.

The purpose of this street style and these collections featuring neckties is to appeal to both new generations and sceptics alike, showcasing that this classic accessory adds a versatile touch to any attire and can even inject a sense of playfulness, as exemplified by Calabrese since 1924. There’s something to suit every preference, with one guiding principle: avoid excessive extravagance in shapes, designs, and patterns.

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Un post condiviso da Calabrese 1924 (@calabrese1924)



Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan