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Where Fashion Becomes Language: The Istituto Marangoni Method(s)

Could a methodology have influenced Milan’s tailoring tradition of the time?

The answer lies in the Marangoni Method(s), which introduced a teaching philosophy centred on shape and volume.

The term "Method(s)" does not refer to a rigid system but to a plural, flexible, and evolving practice. It is the result of continuous research, experimentation, and codification.

Long before fashion became industrialized, this approach treated patterns as detailed plans, garments as design projects, and the workshop as a space for creativity and innovation.

What began in the 1930s as meticulous craftsmanship soon evolved into a new language. The early manuals of pattern-making—tools of precision and poetry—document this transformation: from one-of-a-kind creations to systems of construction.

Fashion was no longer only art or craft. It became design—the ability to imagine at scale, to repeat beauty, to translate vision into process.

In this shifting landscape, a new figure emerged: the fashion designer. Someone who doesn't just make clothes, but imagines silhouettes, proportions, gestures.

Before photography came to define fashion’s postwar image, illustration was the medium that truly captured its essence—immediate, expressive, and intimate. While many turned away from drawing, Istituto Marangoni remained committed to the craft, embracing its creative power with confidence and clarity.

Francesco Fioretto (Istituto Marangoni Director of Education, Research & Academics) states:

At a time when someone stated that fashion illustration was obsolete, Istituto Marangoni forged its own path by preserving the role of fashion drawing. Because it was (and still is) the fastest form of communication and idea-assessment.

Design, here, becomes more than function— it becomes philosophy. A way of thinking, of shaping ideas, of embodying identity. The Marangoni Method(s) were never about rigid rules. They are fluid, plural, intuitive. Born from constant research and experimentation, they reflect an openness to the world—a curiosity that embraces change and contradiction.

As the fashion system grew—through magazines, publishing, and graphic design—the Method(s) expanded too. Technical drawings became tools of storytelling. Form and volume began to overlap with narrative and emotion.

Fashion education, for Istituto Marangoni, meant understanding fashion not just as product, but as message, as movement, as meaning.

This is not a method you simply study. It’s a method you live. It encourages you to jump into the unknown and turn every creative act into a clear expression of your vision. 

Today, this lived experience extends beyond the classroom: the Marangoni Method is also designed for digital learning, with dedicated courses in the Virtual School and the creation of immersive spaces in the Metaverse. The newest programmes respond directly to industry needs, opening paths into emerging roles and disciplines that traditional education often overlooks, while the professional sphere is enriched with ultra-specialised courses for experienced professionals who want to acquire new, specific expertise.

 

“Our goal is to have the courage to jump into something new and take it on completely. Then, to make every gesture a philosophy—a way of building a vision. And finally, to cultivate a multidisciplinary approach that makes us complex, never banal, always plural. At Istituto Marangoni, the approach is one of openness and possibility—what truly matters is not just having the right ingredients but learning how to blend them into something entirely your own.” – Francesco Fioretto (Istituto Marangoni Director of Education, Research & Academics)

With each new generation of students, the Marangoni Method(s) continue to evolve—rooted in tradition, but always looking ahead.
It’s not just a method, but a way of thinking. It starts with the hands, moves through the heart, and becomes a language that can be worn by the world.

 

On its 90th anniversary, Istituto Marangoni presents a dedicated exhibition celebrating its singular teaching methodology—a visual and conceptual exploration of form and volume, charting its evolution from the early days of the 1930s to today’s contemporary vision.

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