Istituto Marangoni show at Milan Fashion Week 2025: Why this is the debut to watch
Istituto Marangoni celebrates 90 years with XC | 90 graduate show, showcasing why emerging designers are the ones truly shaping SS 2026 fashion
As Spring/Summer 2026 fashion unfolds on the global stage, the industry is experiencing an unprecedented wave of creative director debuts at prestigious houses including Gucci, Dior, Chanel and Versace. In this context of high-profile leadership changes, Istituto Marangoni is marking its 90th anniversary with the immersive XC | 90 graduate show during Milan Fashion Week 2025, showcasing the best emerging designers poised to shape the future of luxury fashion.
While major conglomerates often rotate familiar names to balance creative risk and financial performance, platforms like XC | 90 reveal fresh talent and innovation. They provide a glimpse not only of potential but also of the next generation of fashion designers who will undoubtedly influence both cultural trends and the commercial landscape of the industry.
Historic Season of Creative Director Debuts in Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion
The Spring/Summer 2026 season is shaping up to be one of the most transformative moments in recent fashion history. It is rare for the global fashion calendar to witness so many creative director debuts within a single month. From New York to Paris, and Milan to London, the industry is undergoing a significant leadership reshuffle.
At New York Fashion Week, Nicholas Aburn made his debut at Area, while Rachel Scott unveiled her first collection for Proenza Schouler.
Milan promises even more changes, with Demna’s highly anticipated arrival at Gucci (under Kering), Simone Bellotti’s new direction for Jil Sander (OTB), Dario Vitale’s first chapter at Versace (now part of the Prada Group), and Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta (Kering).
The Paris shows will be the highlight of the season, with Matthieu Blazy debuting at Chanel, Jonathan Anderson at Dior womenswear (LVMH), Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga (Kering), Glenn Martens covering ready-to-wear at Maison Margiela (after presenting the couture collection for the OTB-owned brand in July), and Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe (LVMH). Additionally, new beginnings include Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier (Puig), Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler (L’Oréal), and Mark Thomas at Carven.
Conglomerates, Strategy and the Risks of Creative Director Appointments
At first glance, the recent surge in new creative director appointments suggests a dynamic shift within these companies, indicating that conglomerates are willing to refresh their leadership. However, a closer look reveals that this strategy is cautious and somewhat outdated. Historically, changing a creative director during times of declining revenues has been viewed as a way to revitalise a brand, but relying on this approach too frequently can lead to overextension and exhaustion. Moreover, most of these “new” appointees are familiar faces, who have been moved around among various portfolios—this is less about taking creative risks and more about playing it safe.
For conglomerates such as Kering and LVMH, the rationale is clear: they face significant pressure from shareholders, who expect stability and a return to revenue growth. As a result, these companies often choose to replace their creative vision with a designer who has a proven track record and cultural relevance, which tends to provide more reassurance to management than opting for a riskier, untested candidate. In fact, this model—pairing a heritage house with a celebrity designer—has consistently generated both financial benefits and cultural impact.
The concern? The playbook may be reaching its limits. In today’s market—where interest in luxury goods is waning, consumer loyalty is harder to secure, and younger audiences seek genuine authenticity—it is worth questioning whether this formula can still deliver. While rotating high-profile names may reassure analysts in the short term, it risks leading to long-term creative stagnation and ultimately weaker community engagement.
Emerging Designers: Istituto Marangoni’s Role in Luxury Fashion
What is striking is the limited number of fashion houses that are embracing truly fresh perspectives—whether from young emerging designers or industry professionals who have previously played less visible roles. Among the notable exceptions are Rachel Scott at Proenza Schouler and Dario Vitale at Versace. Both are graduates of Istituto Marangoni Milano, which indicates that true innovation is more likely to arise not from rehashing existing talent but from educational institutions and incubators that cultivate designers before they reach the market spotlight.
It is fitting, then, that Istituto Marangoni is centre stage this season. On 27 September 2025, during Milan Fashion Week, the school will celebrate its 90th anniversary with XC | 90, an immersive fashion show at the Galleria Meravigli.
XC | 90: Istituto Marangoni Milano Graduate Show at Milan Fashion Week 2025
The XC | 90 Fashion Show is more than a graduation event; it brings together ten of Istituto Marangoni Milano’s most promising emerging designers, selected by a jury that includes notable figures such as Alessandro Sartori (Zegna), Antonio Masciariello (Versace), Francesca Ragazzi (Vogue Italia), Marco Rambaldi and Sara Sozzani Maino.
The collections explore diverse themes:
- Beatricia Rotaru’s A ME VEL PRO ME, a theatrical meditation on destiny.
- Giorgia Candida Sorbillo’s irreverent VADO. C’È L’ALTALENA LIBERA.
- Maresia Cristini’s RESTO IN SOSPESO, an emotional mosaic where contrast and harmony coexist.
- Marco Tulli’s OTIA LIBERRIMA, a reimagining of classic menswear.
- Jacopo Maria Arena’s DIVERSO, inspired by the Platonic myth of the androgynous.
- Vittorio Tinti’s GALLERIA 67, a dialogue between Brutalism, nature, and the memory of Arte Povera.
- Kyunghoe Ku’s RIBELLIONE LEGACY, deconstructing military codes.
- Katsiaryna Yermakova’s RESIDUE, a search for “home” across childhood memories and seascapes.
- Asia Pecorini’s PSICOFORME, visionary volumes shaping a dreamlike yet minimal elegance.
- Giuseppina Lamiranda’s ANCESTRAL RHYTHMS, a journey into roots through rhythm and memory.
XC | 90: The Must-Watch Debut of Milan Fashion Week
The Istituto Marangoni Milano graduate show, a long-standing hotspot for emerging fashion designers, takes on particular importance this year for two key reasons. First, while the school celebrates its 90th anniversary, this edition continues to focus on the next generation of creatives rather than dwelling on nostalgia. The message is straightforward: the past provides a foundation, but a leading fashion institution’s role is to propel new talent forward.
Second, the showcase features ten of the most promising newly graduated designers at a time when the industry’s language—innovation, renewal, and discovery— clashes with its often risk-averse hiring practices. Set against a backdrop of cautious conglomerate strategies, XC | 90 reminds us that true creative innovation typically originates far from corporate boardrooms. These graduates may not yet carry significant influence over balance sheets, but they embody the potential for fashion’s next phase of cultural and commercial growth.
Spring/Summer 2026 will be remembered for its unprecedented wave of creative director debuts. However, looking ahead, it may be the emerging designers unveiled at Istituto Marangoni’s 90th Anniversary XC | 90 Graduate Show during Milan Fashion Week 2025 who ultimately define the future of the industry.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Tutor for Styling, Business and Design Course and Master’s Programmes, Milan