Is biotech fashion the future of sustainable fabrics and luxury textiles?
Spider silk, squid proteins, citrus waste, banana plants, and lab-grown cotton are driving biotech fashion towards innovative, sustainable luxury
Fashion materials are entering a new era shaped by science. From spider-silk proteins brewed in bioreactors and self-healing fabrics inspired by squids, to textiles made from citrus waste and canvas derived from banana plants, biotech fashion is redefining the future of sustainable luxury.
No longer limited to seasonal trends, the materials themselves are becoming the focal point of the narrative, offering innovative fabrics that last longer, biodegrade faster, and transform waste into stylish options.
Why Fashion Is Entering the Era of Biotech Textiles
It’s a significant turning point for those working in the fashion textiles sector. An industry that once sold dreams is now being called upon to deliver practical solutions. The traditional boundaries of luxury materials, once defined by rarity and craftsmanship, may now be reshaped by renewal and responsibility.
What if the trench coat of the future could last 30 years yet entirely decompose in 30 days within a compost pile? What if the most beautiful fabric you wear was once regarded as waste?
Why Material Innovation Is Essential to Sustainable Luxury Fashion
In a world where everything is consumed rapidly—raw materials, ideas, and even values—the fashion system finds itself caught in a paradox. One of the most creative industries is also one of the most polluting. A sector that thrives on “newness” must now learn to embrace longevity.
This is where sustainability and innovation converge—not as marketing buzzwords, but as textile principles grounded in science, nature, and a deeper rethinking of what clothing can be.
How Sustainable Fabrics Are Telling New Fashion Stories
When we observe a runway or a campaign image, what grabs attention is no longer just beauty; it’s the storytelling. Increasingly, these stories are about the nature of the material.
What is this fabric made of? What will happen to it once you stop wearing it? Questions that were once limited to a niche audience are becoming mainstream. And perhaps the most fascinating answers come from the most unexpected sources: spiders, squids, bacteria, fungi, and even orange peels.
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Among different companies operating in the segment, Spiber produces biomaterials such as Brewed Protein fiber
Spider Silk and Its Evolutions: Stronger, Biodegradable, and Luxury-Ready
Spider silk has fascinated humanity for centuries. It is five times stronger than steel by weight, more elastic than nylon, and naturally biodegradable.
In the 19th century, French missionary Jacob Paul Camboué successfully harvested silk from Golden Orb spiders without harming them; however, the production process was highly inefficient, requiring over a million spiders to produce just one metre of fabric.
Modern science has revived this ancient marvel. While the spiders are no longer those from Camboué’s, they have been reimagined through technology. Biotech companies like Bolt Threads and Spiber Inc. have genetically engineered microbes to produce spider silk proteins through fermentation. These proteins are cultivated in bioreactors and spun into high-performance, biodegradable fibres.
Bolt Threads collaborated with Stella McCartney and Adidas, while Spiber created a haute couture piece with Iris van Herpen, who used their Brewed Protein™ material (Vogue Business, 2023). These collaborations are not mere conceptual gimmicks; they represent a deep shift in luxury fashion.
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Stella McCartney and Adidas used Microsilk from Bolt in their Biofabric Tennis Dress collaboration
Self-Healing Fabrics Inspired by Squid Proteins
While spider silk offers remarkable strength, squid-inspired fabrics focus on resilience. Some researchers have found that certain squid proteins—known as SRT (Squid Ring Teeth)—can self-heal when exposed to heat or water. Biotech company Tandem Repeat has transformed this property into a fabric that can regenerate itself after cuts or abrasions. For instance, a torn sleeve can repair itself in a humid environment, and a scratched sneaker can smooth out when exposed to warm air.
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Tandem Repeat Technologies is a climate tech startup harnessing sustainable and ethical manufacturing to create all-natural, high-performance fibers.
This technology not only extends the lifespan of products but also reduces microplastic shedding, paving the way for garments that can repair themselves.
Citrus Waste Textiles: Turning Orange Peels into Luxury Fabrics
But perhaps the most intriguing innovation comes from citrus waste. In Italy alone, more than 700,000 tons of orange peels are discarded annually. That’s why the Italian startup Orange Fiber was founded: to transform this waste into lightweight, luxurious fabrics.
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Orange Fiber is a brand specialized in sustainable and innovative fabrics for fashion from citrus juice by-products
The result? A lustrous, breathable textile used by Salvatore Ferragamo and Loewe, featuring UV protection, natural sheen, and moisture control. This fabric, crafted from citrus pulp, presents an elegant answer to fashion’s waste crisis.
Banana Plant Fibres and the Future of Eco-Canvas
Another innovative material is Bananatex, a durable yet biodegradable canvas made from the Abacá banana plant. Unlike cotton, Abacá requires no pesticides or irrigation and actually encourages reforestation. Brands like QWSTION, H&M, and Good News have already launched products made from this material.
Bacteria-Powered Fabrics That Breathe with the Body
Some materials don’t just imitate nature but also collaborate with it. At MIT’s Tangible Media Group, researchers have developed bio-hybrid fabrics embedded with living Natto bacteria that respond to body temperature and sweat.
These garments “breathe” with the wearer, opening and closing their pores like living skin. No sensors, no wires, or batteries involved—just microbial intelligence woven into fashion.
Wood Pulp Textiles: A Responsible Alternative to Petroleum-Based Fabrics
In Finland, the company Spinnova is producing fibres from wood pulp and textile waste using mechanical processes, without the use of harmful chemicals.
Their fully biodegradable fabric is already in production, with more than 1,000 tonnes manufactured annually (Spinnova, 2023). This is not a futuristic fantasy; it’s a functioning model of post-petroleum textiles.
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Spinnova is a company aimed at transforming the raw material base of the global textile ecosystem with its technology
Lab-Grown Cotton: The Next Step in Sustainable Fashion
And then there’s lab-grown cotton. The US-based company Galy is growing real cotton from plant cells in a lab—no fields, no pesticides, and no seasonal cycles.
Backed by Inditex (the parent company of Zara) and recognised at climate summits, Galy’s approach could soon scale to compete with conventional cotton production (TIME, 2024).
Designers and Consumers: A New Collaboration with Nature in Fashion
Each of these materials offers something that exceeds mere sustainability. They represent a philosophical shift. In this context, the designer becomes a biologist, the consumer a co-evolver, and the garment a living system. It’s no longer just about how clothes look, but also about how they can adapt and how they are recycled.
As fashion faces its greatest challenge yet—striking a balance between self-expression and sustainability—it becomes clear that the solutions do not involve merely imitating nature but rather collaborating with it. The most valuable thread we can weave may not be made from silk or cotton, but rather from our collective commitment to a world where beauty and survival are finally intertwined.
Elifsu Özgür
Master’s Student in Fashion and Luxury Brand Management, Paris