Pierre Gueros reveals what’s behind the Istituto Marangoni 90th anniversary perfume
Discover the Istituto Marangoni fragrance: the 90th-anniversary perfume by Pierre Gueros, blending creativity, innovation, and ethical ingredients
Istituto Marangoni Fragrance: Celebrating 90 Years of a Creative State of Mind
To mark its 90th anniversary, Istituto Marangoni presents a new luxury fragrance collaboration—a special perfume created by master perfumer Pierre Gueros from Symrise.
Designed to reflect the school’s values and heritage, the new Istituto Marangoni fragrance blends art and olfactory creativity with the spirit of innovation and craftsmanship that has defined the institution for nine decades.
Upon the first spray, a fresh, familiar, somewhat nostalgic breeze of cologne emerges. As the fragrance develops, its notes grow warmer and more enveloping, revealing a timeless refinement that resonates with modern sensibilities—a signature of creative fragrance design rooted in both tradition and progress.
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Grown in close contact with his father's fashion studio, Pierre Gueros started his journey in perfumery as a combination between two passions: creativity and chemistry
Creative Fragrance Design by Master Perfumer Pierre Gueros
“I wanted to create something that could be appreciated beyond the time of its creation,” explains Pierre Gueros, the French fragrance innovator behind this project. “The starting point was a series of key words that capture the spirit of Istituto Marangoni: Creative Mindset, Ambition, Elegance, Refinement, Awareness, Community, Innovation. From there, I sought to give each of these values an olfactory form, choosing ingredients not only for their scent, but for what they represent.”
To express creativity, Gueros chose an unexpected note: artichoke. “It’s a bit surprising,” he smiles, “but it fits beautifully into a floral structure built around rose. After all, people often say that roses have an artichoke-like nuance.”
The opening, vibrant and green, evolves into a soft, embracing heart where ambition takes shape through one of perfumery’s most precious materials: ambrette seed. “I used it generously,” admits Gueros. “It perfectly represents ambition—one of the most expensive, yet most refined and subtle ingredients in the perfumer’s palette.” Combined with iris, it creates an accord of sophisticated grace.
“Ambrette and iris together produce something refined and classically beautiful—a little French, a little Italian,” Gueros adds. “You can’t craft a truly distinguished perfume without investing in such noble raw materials.” And noble they are. “Ambrette seeds yield very little essence,” he explains. “The extraction rate is extremely low, which makes them incredibly expensive. Yet they lend the fragrance a tender, alcoholic smoothness—something gracious and rare.”
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Pierre Gueros has been strongly commited to represent founding values of Istituto Marangoni, such as Creative Mindset, Ambition and Elegance
Sustainable Luxury Perfume with Ethical Ingredients
Beyond its harmonious aesthetic, the new Istituto Marangoni fragrance also carries a message of responsibility. Perfumer Pierre Gueros chose hand-pressed mandarin from Madagascar, an ingredient recognised for both its olfactory and social value. This choice symbolises the creation of sustainable luxury perfumes and reflects the school’s enduring commitment to using ethical fragrance ingredients and empowering local communities.
“It’s a way to highlight the work of local women,” says Gueros. “In the evenings, they gather to press the fruit beneath what they call the tree of palabres—a traditional meeting place where they talk and exchange ideas. I love the word alabra, which means ‘word’. It evokes dialogue, connection, and community—key elements of Istituto Marangoni’s spirit.”
The profits generated from this initiative are retained by the women involved and often invested in their children’s education. Launched years ago, the programme was designed to ensure year-round employment for local farmers and has also contributed to the revival of wild citrus trees—descendants of varieties introduced centuries ago by Asian immigrants and left to grow freely.
“Our local agronomists told us, ‘We can do it the way it was done in the 19th century in Italy—pressing citrus by hand,’” recalls Gueros. “It’s a win-win. Responsible production also allows us to source extraordinary materials, like these mandarins, whose scent is unlike anything on the market. That’s the most rewarding outcome.”
Innovation in Modern Perfumery
To represent the innovation of Istituto Marangoni, Pierre Gueros introduced a breakthrough ingredient—the Ambronova molecule. “I wanted to include something fresh and modern—a symbol of scientific curiosity that fuses natural richness with a forward-thinking spirit.”
At the heart of this creative fragrance design is a final gesture of connection, highlighting the value of community that lies at the core of the school: the Bourbon vanilla accord. It’s a universal ingredient that, as Gueros describes, “brings people together. It is cherished everywhere, transcending cultures and personal preferences—an emotional and olfactory bond that unites us all.”
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This year Gueros's "315 Palo Santo" was awarded Best Made in Italy Masculine Fragrance
Where Art, Innovation and Responsibility Meet in Fragrance
The result is a fragrance that celebrates 90 years of creativity at Istituto Marangoni—a luxury perfume that feels both timeless and contemporary. It represents a dialogue between art and ethics, craftsmanship and sensitivity, and is perfectly aligned with the school’s philosophy: the fusion of creativity and responsibility, aesthetics and awareness.
“A perfume must speak of both its creator and its wearer,” concludes Pierre Gueros, master perfumer. “In this case, it tells the story of Istituto Marangoni—a school that believes beauty itself is a form of culture, celebrating creativity.”