Milan was freezing these days, but the designers seemed to have a hot vision of femininity. It was all about sex and seduction in all possible shades.
Bottega Veneta spring-summer 2023
Beyond all the gothic sirens of Versace, Blumarine and Trussardi, carefully flaunting the body in sharp, fluttering minidresses, the challenge was to balance freshness and continuity, and they succeeded. The cold-blooded vision of sexiness that dominated the post-Covid seasons was also thawed at Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Prada, all of whom brought a newfound elegance to women’s fashion, albeit always a little conservative. Even the “Dolce&Gabbana Sicilian Widow” is back, and we should thank Kim Kardashian. Who could have imagined? There was also an ode to the art of subtle sex appeal by Alessandro Dell’Acqua of N°21. Entitled “The Lovers”, the collection was all about open skirt suits, red satin lingerie peeking out from sheer black chiffon and nude wet-look dresses. The dresses were shaped to resemble a woman during a passionate love affair; they were taken off and hastily buttoned up again. Then, there was the girl who plays sexy by Marco Rambaldi, with his Catullo-inspired collection “Odi et Amo”. It explores the conflicting emotions of our generation, a story about inclusion and craftsmanship through a post-romantic aesthetic.
Dolce&Gabbana spring-summer 2023
Meanwhile, in the middle of Diesel’s catwalk were four inflatable human figures that appeared to be erotically intertwined. Martens’ invitation, accompanied for the second season running by a sex toy – this time made of glass – reinforced the suspicion that this was their position. Next, there was the connection between twins. People who share the same DNA have an irreplaceable bond. Another love story comes from Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, who turned his autobiography into a collection that didn’t need doubles to make an impact.
There was some sensuality in the Italian fashion capital, reflected in a bunch of lingerie-inspired pieces for the merchandising mix. There was hosiery – from Dolce&Gabbana’s more risqué suspender tights to Bottega’s wardrobe-essential 40 denier tights – bustiers and uncovered bras and panties. Transparencies and cut-outs were very popular, as next summer is all about undressing. There were also many “see-through” moments due to the fluttering pieces embellished by fringes. Not only Roberto Cavalli went for animal print, but also Gucci, Antonio Marras and others polished up their wild spirit.
GCDS spring-summer 2023
Meanwhile, reminiscences of the ‘00s continue to dominate the catwalks in a Milan that has already given this decade pride of place with low waists, cargo trousers and crop tops for two seasons. As twenty years ago, denim is again the main character, treated with the same craftsmanship for which Italy’s tailors are well-known. It was not just about the “King of denim” – Glen Martens – but all the Italian luxury houses showing their interpretation of it. From Bally to Tod’s, this fabric shifted from workwear to luxury.
Diesel spring-summer 2023
This season, designers seemed to vacillate between a desire for safe nostalgia and a desire to celebrate raw sensuality. Bridging the gap between sex and cultural flattening, the catwalks focused on undressing as something that empowers the wearer, not the viewer.