XC | 90: Exclusive preview of Istituto Marangoni Milano’s graduate fashion show
From analogue innovation to AI-generated poetry, Istituto Marangoni’s most visionary show imagines the future. Here’s your exclusive first look
Milan’s fashion scene is about to get a boost. On 27 September, Istituto Marangoni Milano will host the XC | 90 graduate runway show at the stunning Galleria Meravigli, located right next to Palazzo Turati, the school’s brand-new home.
Anticipation is at an all-time high, and for good reason: this is far more than a showcase—it’s a bold statement of fashion’s future. In celebration of Istituto Marangoni’s 90th anniversary, the show perfectly embodies the school’s ethos of looking forward rather than dwelling on the past. It aims to leverage nine decades of heritage and expertise to drive innovation, fashion education, and creativity into the next era.
Our magazine, Maze35, has caught up with the creative team behind the graduate fashion show during casting and fittings. We’re ready to drop some exclusive spoilers and behind-the-scenes details that will make you eagerly count down to the big night.
THE TITLE: What XC | 90 Reveals About the Future of Fashion
“Way more than just an anniversary, XC | 90 is a moment of extroflection, a powerful outward gaze born from deep reflection, where past and future collide in the electric now,” says Diana Marian Murek, Director of Education at Istituto Marangoni Milano and Artistic Director of the show.
“Ninety years of Marangoni isn’t about nostalgia. It’s a living transformation—a reminder that fashion isn’t static memory, but raw, regenerative energy,” continues Murek. “In the dance between 9 and 0 lies the heart of this celebration: nine marks the final step before rebirth, while zero isn’t emptiness—it’s infinite possibility, the blank canvas where new worlds ignite.”
Moodboard of grooming references for the XC | 90 graduate fashion show
According to the Director of Education, celebrating ninety years is about standing at this threshold with courage— occupying the liminal space where heritage meets imagination. It’s where the weight of history gives way to the lightness of possibility.
“This isn’t just a tribute. It’s a manifesto—a choreography of ideas, identities, and visions reflecting the cultural shift of our era. It’s proof that creativity rooted in history but unafraid of the future becomes a bridge, a connector, and a catalyst for real change,” she states.
THE SET-UP: Galleria Meravigli Transformed for Istituto Marangoni Milano Graduate Show
The show will take place at Galleria Meravigli, a space that has been transformed into something otherworldly. “The set design has been conceived as an abstract, suspended environment, featuring a site-specific installation made from an extroflexed membrane of synthetic material, through which memory becomes matter,” explains Diana Marian Murek.
It feels like the calm before a creative storm—a beating heart of energy ready to ignite, drawing in everyone present in the room as well as those watching online.
Students and Diana Marian Murek review casting decisions and refine each look before the show
THE CURATORIAL PROJECT: How CODEX Bridges Runway, Styling, Editorial, and Print
This year’s graduate fashion show won’t be just a catwalk—it will be a curatorial drop that bridges runway, editorial, and the raw energy of independent publishing.
“Alongside the show, we launched CODEX, a curatorial project as a book that brings together the instinctive style of our Styling students and the vision of the ten designers in the show,” reveals Murek. “It offers a fresh, unfiltered take on the collections, breaking free from the original coordination to explore new visual narratives. It’s also a return to print, a physical object that archives the students’ voices and the inspirations behind their work.” This striking project is set to evolve and grow with future shows.
Garments prepared backstage at the Istituto Marangoni Milano fashion show 2025
THE SOUND DESIGN: Emiliano Zelada’s AI-Infused Sonic Landscape
The sonic identity of the event has been crafted by Emiliano Zelada, an internationally acclaimed artist and composer recognised for his ability to push the boundaries between sound and emotion. For this occasion, Zelada delivers a soundscape filled with modern melancholy, layered with AI-generated vocal textures that seamlessly blend machine precision with human soul.
“The soundtrack for the show was designed to embody the intersection of computational logic and artistic expression,” explains Emiliano Zelada himself.
The lyrical components of the composition were written by Diana Marian Murek, inspired by mathematical codes that consistently resolve to 90—a number transformed into a concept, a formula turned into a mantra.
Here’s an exclusive sneak peek (just for our readers!) of the lyrics:
“Open parenthesis seven times eight close parenthesis plus open parenthesis five times ten close parenthesis minus open parenthesis three times fourteen close parenthesis minus open parenthesis sixteen times four close parenthesis equals zero. (7×8)+(5×10)−(3×14)−(16×4)=0
Open parenthesis two hundred minus twenty close parenthesis minus open parenthesis thirty plus sixty close parenthesis equals ninety. (200−20)−(30+60)=90
Open parenthesis twenty-seven plus eighteen close parenthesis divided by five equals nine. (27+18)÷5=9.”
Mathematics as poetry. Code as verse. Welcome to a new kind of rhythm.
THE DESIGN: How Istituto Marangoni Milano Students Are Redefining Fashion
Design at its core is energy, and this year, the Istituto Marangoni Milano students brought it in full force. “There’s a raw, infectious curiosity that drives their process,” says Antonio Patruno Randolfi, Design Director of the show and Design Program Leader at Istituto Marangoni Milano. “The top 10 fashion designers this year didn’t just meet expectations; they redefined them.”
What’s emerging is a form of analogue innovation, a return to materiality, craftsmanship, and hands-on techniques. From intricate embroidery to fabric experimentation, this is about innovation you can actually feel.
A textile close-up reveals the material complexity at the core of student collections
“It’s a beautiful duality,” Patruno Randolfi continues. “A future-facing mindset that still honours the past. We’re not chasing trends—we’re building on legacy, remixing it into something entirely new. That balance is woven into our DNA.”
This season also marks a vibrant shift toward colour, consciously breaking away from monochrome minimalism to embrace unexpected and bold combinations. One highlight? A chromatic layering of contrasting greens, each sourced from a different realm, blends into something entirely fresh.
Form, too, is being challenged—not to distort, but to transform. Classic silhouettes are being reinterpreted with precision and a touch of attitude.
THE STYLING: Telling Stories Through Every Look at XC | 90 Graduate Fashion Show
Styling for a show like this isn’t just about clothes; it’s about storytelling. “Our approach is deliberately delicate, intentional,” says Michela Guasco, Styling Director of the show and Styling Program Leader at Istituto Marangoni Milano. “Every look is designed to amplify the identity of each collection and give every student their own distinct voice on the runway.”
The process begins long before the spotlight hits. Throughout the academic year, students and stylists collaborate closely—through classes, workshops, and creative deep-dives—shaping each look with precision and purpose.
Model cards set out for casting, forming the story of the XC | 90 graduate fashion show
Footwear? It’s not just an accessory; it’s a statement, and one of the biggest challenges. “Shoes are fundamental,” Guasco explains. “They’re often handcrafted by the students themselves, working side-by-side with a shoemaker. They dye, detail, and personalise every pair. It’s pure craftsmanship. It’s collaborative, hands-on, and deeply personal.”
Styling begins with a simple question: What do you want to express? From there, the story unfolds through textures, silhouettes, and attitude. Ultimately, it’s all about the student and the world they’re creating.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Tutor for Styling, Business and Design Course and Master’s Programmes, Milan