Demna’s rise revealed: From Balenciaga rejection to Gucci creative director
Refused by Balenciaga. Celebrated by Kering. Now the creative director of Gucci. Demna’s revenge is fashion’s greatest plot twist
What if your biggest rejection became your greatest triumph? In 2006, a young design graduate named Demna Gvasalia applied for an internship at Balenciaga—but was turned down. Fast forward to 2015, when he was named the creative director of that very same fashion house. Now, in 2025, Demna is poised to make history again, this time at the helm of Gucci.
As Balenciaga prepares to bid farewell to Demna after a decade of groundbreaking collaboration, the brand marks the end of an era. Today, it will present its final haute couture show under his visionary direction during the Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2025 fashion week in Paris.
What Is the “Balenciaga by Demna” Retrospective?
In a poetic full-circle moment, luxury giant Kering has just opened a retrospective titled “Balenciaga by Demna” at its Paris headquarters. Launched during Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS26, the exhibition celebrates the designer’s transformative impact on the house and his lasting legacy over ten remarkable years.
Snapshot from the exhibition "Balenciaga by Demna", featuring iconic looks realized by Demna Gvasalia. Photo Annik Wetter, courtesy of Balenciaga
One of the first things visitors encounter is a framed copy of the actual email rejecting Demna’s internship application. Yep. That awkward, impersonal email now hangs as a trophy in a curated exhibition of over 100 of his most iconic looks. Talk about turning a “no” into a legacy!
Why Did Balenciaga Reject Demna in 2006?
The rejection email Demna received was short and generic. Like thousands of hopeful applicants, he was told that Balenciaga would not be moving forward with his candidacy. The irony? That very message is now displayed inside Balenciaga’s headquarters—a moment of closure has been turned into a monument.
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Series of meaningful objects related to the designer's experience at Balenciaga featured in the show. Photo Annik Wetter, courtesy of Balenciaga
A Decade of Disruption: What Demna Did at Balenciaga
Hosted at Kering’s flagship location on Rue de Sèvres, the show marks 10 years of Demna’s groundbreaking time at Balenciaga. However, this isn’t your average fashion retrospective. The setup is striking: a giant black cross cuts through the space like a fashion altar, filled with oversized silhouettes, dystopian tailoring, ironic couture, and post-Soviet edge.
From massive hoodies and structural puffer coats to tape-wrapped stilettos and haute couture made from garbage bags, the display takes you through the weird, wild, and undeniably iconic world that Demna has built. Each piece represents more than just fashion; it’s a statement, a protest, a punchline, or sometimes all three.
As for the audio tour, it is narrated by a synthetic voice mimicking Demna’s tone, breaking down the ideas behind each look. The narration is haunting, weirdly personal, and very much on-brand.
Among the different looks included, exhibition showcased the iconic total black ensemble worn at Met Gala 2021. Photo Annik Wetter, courtesy of Balenciaga
Who Is Demna? From Georgia to Global Fashion Visionary
Demna was born in Georgia (the country, not the U.S. state), and trained in Antwerp before launching Vetements with his brother Guram Gvasalia. The label challenged and reinvented fashion from the inside out. In 2015, Kering took a risk by handing the reins of Balenciaga to a man who once sold DHL T-shirts for $200. It paid off.
Demna didn’t just design clothes; he redefined what luxury meant. He blurred the lines between high fashion and meme culture, made Crocs cool, and turned runway shows into political theatre. Whether people loved it or hated it, they paid attention— and that was the point.
What Makes That Balenciaga Rejection Email So Powerful Today?
The show features 101 looks from 2015 to 2024, including red-carpet moments, streetwear hybrids, viral hits (like the Triple S sneakers), and even designs from Balenciaga’s haute couture relaunch. But what hits hardest is that rejection email—cold, generic, and short-sighted. It serves as a reminder that even fashion legends start with a “thanks, but no thanks.” That email has since become part of history, and it’s framed for all to see. Literally.
Demna referred to the exhibition as a “closure.” It’s not an ending—more like shedding a skin. He described his Balenciaga decade as a “journey of breaking boundaries.” His approach to fashion wasn’t about following rules but rather about challenging the very idea of why rules should exist at all.
Celebrating Gvasalia’s era-defining vision, the exhibition spotlighted his enduring influence on the Spanish-French maison. Photo Annik Wetter, courtesy of Balenciaga
When Did Demna Leave Balenciaga—and Why?
This spring, Demna officially stepped down from Balenciaga, and Kering made another move by appointing him as the creative director of Gucci, one of the most culturally influential fashion brands today.
Who Replaced Demna at Balenciaga? Meet Pierpaolo Piccioli
At the same time, Pierpaolo Piccioli, formerly of Valentino, took over at Balenciaga, promising a more romantic and expressive future for the label.
What Will Demna Do at Gucci as Creative Director?
All eyes are now on Gucci: what will Demna do with its legacy of eclectic glam and maximalist nostalgia?
Early rumours suggest that we may see a more restrained and poetic version of Demna. He will still embrace his unique style—strange and cerebral—but with a different rhythm. Think of it as evolution rather than repetition
What Can Young Designers Learn from Demna’s Story?
Let this sink in: the person who was once told “you’re not a fit” is now shaping the future of two of the world’s most powerful fashion houses. And that rejection email became a highlight in a show celebrating his work.
What’s the takeaway? Rejection isn’t failure; it’s just a detour. “Never give up. Keep going,” Demna shared during the opening of the exhibition. “Sometimes rejection is the beginning of something much bigger.”
If you’re a young creative reading this, consider printing out your rejection emails and framing them. One day, they might hang alongside your masterpieces.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Master, Styling, Business, Design Courses Tutor, Milan