At Triennale Milano, step into the world of Italian pop-style visionary Elio Fiorucci. The exhibition is a deep dive into the triumphant ‘80s, showcasing bold creations, messages of freedom and love, and, yes, a few setbacks faced by the brand. Is it a tribute to the past or a dialogue with the present? Explore and decide for yourself before March 16. But first, discover five essential insights into Fiorucci—the brand and the man—drawn from the most extensive exhibition ever dedicated to him.
As you behold the portrait of Elio Fiorucci, his ever-present smile invites you into his mind—or, more aptly, his world. It’s a universe that is colourful, noisy, chaotic, and magnetic, much like the hedonistic 1980s he thrived in. The gateway to this pop wonderland, adorned with technicolour cherubs donning sunglasses, is the exhibition “Elio Fiorucci” at Triennale Milano.
Curated by Judith Clark and designed by Fabio Cherstich, the exhibition—open through March 16, 2025—is the most extensive retrospective ever dedicated to designer and entrepreneur Elio Fiorucci. The minimalist architecture of Triennale Milano stands in stark contrast to the playful garments and artefacts on display, echoing the harmonious clash of disciplines that defined Fiorucci’s career. This retrospective also fuels the revival of the Fiorucci brand following its runway comeback in September 2024 under creative director Francesca Murri, whose vision first emerged with a presentation in September 2023.
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To fully grasp the significance of the “Elio Fiorucci” exhibit—along with the motivations behind the debut catwalk, the upcoming second runway show set for the following season, and the exhibition celebrating both the Fiorucci brand and its founder—one must immerse themselves in this colourful tribute. Despite experiencing periods of “dormancy” since the 2000s due to unfortunate financial difficulties and changes in ownership, as well as the passing of Elio Fiorucci in 2015 at the age of 80, the spirit of the “Duchamp of Italian fashion,” as philosopher Gillo Dorfles famously described him, continues to resonate.
If you’re still not convinced to visit the exhibit, here are five insights—and just as many reasons—to make your way to Triennale Milano. Perhaps you can go during Milano Fashion Week, when global fashion GOATs are in town, and many take the opportunity to seek refuge in cultural institutions like this during breaks between shows.
1.Concept Stores: Colourful Corners of the World
Stepping into the “Elio Fiorucci” exhibition feels like entering one of Fiorucci’s iconic stores, surrounded by shoes, lights, objects, and vibrant colours. Starting with the Galleria Passarella in Milan and later expanding to London, New York, and Tokyo, Fiorucci’s stores revolutionised the retail landscape.
These boutiques were more than just places to shop for innovative items like miniskirts, bikinis, or transparent raincoats; they served as social hubs for entertainment and celebration, blending DJ sets, furniture, fragrances, and even hamburgers with avant-garde window displays. Inspired by London’s Biba and Mary Quant, Elio Fiorucci brought this concept to Italy, infusing it with his visionary creativity.
2. Word of Mouth: A Global Megaphone
A sign hanging overhead reminds visitors: “People talk…” While it might sound like a warning, it’s actually a nod to Elio Fiorucci’s knack for leveraging human nature. Word of mouth became his most powerful tool, allowing him to spread his brand and ideas globally.
@domus Conosci Fiorucci? C’è una mostra a Milano che ripercorre la storia di uno dei nomi che ha cambiato il mondo della moda! #davedere #fiorucci #milano ♬ suono originale - Domus Magazine
Before long, Elio Fiorucci was rubbing shoulders with Madonna and Andy Warhol, partying at Studio 54 and earning shoutouts like “He’s the greatest dancer” in Sister Sledge’s hit song. His risqué yet vibrant ad campaigns—featuring sensual images and nudity—further propelled the brand’s fame by celebrating freedom of expression.
3. Fiorucci Jeans: A Second Skin
Fiorucci’s celebration of the human body found a perfect outlet in his innovative stretch jeans. By combining denim with Lycra, these form-fitting jeans accentuated curves without revealing too much—a groundbreaking design inspired by the beaches of Ibiza and developed in collaboration with designer Mario Morelli.
This advancement marked a significant shift, aligning perfectly with the evolving figure of the modern woman.
4. Trend Hunting: Travel as Inspiration
Elio Fiorucci understood that trends emerge from urban environments, behaviours, and cultural influences. He invested in a network of cool hunters, covering their global travels to observe how people lived and dressed.
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These journeys brought a wealth of inspiration to Milan, where Fiorucci translated their observations into cutting-edge designs that captured a global zeitgeist.
5. A Spirited Creativity Guided by a Simple Mantra
At the heart of Elio Fiorucci’s boundless creativity was an unwavering belief: “Nothing is impossible.” Even as a young boy dreaming of becoming a merchant, his playful and visionary spirit shone through.
This mindset not only propelled his career but also inspired those around him—from Pirelli’s blue tyres for the one-off Alfa Romeo Giulietta Punk car created in collaboration with architects Ettore Sottsass Jr. and Andrea Branzi, showcased at the 1978 Geneva Motor Show, Fiorucci crafted an entire lifestyle around his brand.
+1 The Legacy of Fiorucci: Yesterday and Tomorrow
Fiorucci’s brand embodied a way of life, serving as a vivid reflection of its founder’s era. While the brand has faced challenges in adapting to shifting cultural and economic landscapes over the years, contemporary efforts seek to reframe Fiorucci for a world shaped by political correctness and evolving aesthetics.
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Elio Fiorucci’s pioneering, unconventional spirit continues to be a cornerstone of modern fashion, celebrated in the “Elio Fiorucci” exhibit at Triennale Milano—a tribute to the designer who brought cherubs, Love Therapy’s dwarfs, and technicolour dreams to life.
Ludovica Contoz
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Milan