What Italy’s young designers really need to succeed (Beyond talent)
The CNMI Fashion Trust Grant 2025 is reshaping Italy’s fashion future by empowering young Italian designers. Will the industry respond?
In a world where fashion trends change faster than a TikTok scroll, one thing remains timeless: the need for fresh ideas. Italy, long regarded as a global capital of craftsmanship and tailoring, is currently experiencing a cultural and creative shift that places young talents at the centre of the conversation. This shift marks a new chapter for emerging designers, who are redefining what “Made in Italy” means in 2025.
Last week, beneath the Art Deco ceilings of Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) put the spotlight exactly where it belongs: on the next generation of Italian designers. The occasion was the 2025 edition of the Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant, a game-changing initiative now in its fifth year that celebrates—and, more importantly, supports—the country’s most promising independent fashion brands.
This year, the spotlight shone on four standout names: Francesco Murano, Moja Rowa, Institution, and Lessico Familiare. Chosen from a pool of ten compelling finalists by an international jury, each winner walked away with a €50,000 grant and, perhaps even more importantly, access to a high-calibre mentorship programme. Such funding and mentorship are essential for turning Italy’s emerging fashion designers into globally competitive brands. Think legal guidance, strategic planning, and sustainability consulting—all designed to help these creatives not just survive but thrive.
Why Italy’s Emerging Designers Need More Than Just a Runway
“It’s not a competition,” said Sara Sozzani Maino, fashion consultant and a strong advocate for the new gen. “It’s a network.” This philosophy speaks volumes about the mission behind the CNMI Fashion Trust Grant 2025: to create not just winners but a lasting ecosystem where young designers can collaborate, connect, and build sustainable careers.
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Highlights from Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant 2025
Many of these creatives face significant barriers to entry, including production costs, limited visibility, and a lack of legal infrastructure. These challenges are common for emerging designers trying to establish their brands in today’s competitive fashion world. This initiative not only acknowledges those hurdles but also provides these designers with the necessary support to overcome them.
“The future can’t ignore this new generation of creatives,” noted Carlo Capasa, President of CNMI. “We work alongside the Fashion Trust to support them through the crucial development stages of their brand.” It’s not just about visibility during fashion week; it’s about building a long-term runway for success.
Meet the Young Designers Redefining Italian Fashion
The winners of the CNMI Fashion Trust Grant 2025 each bring something unmistakably original to the table, yet they all share a common trait: a disruptive vision grounded in craft, culture, and conscience.
Francesco Murano, a favourite of Beyoncé, is no stranger to the spotlight. His designs blend architectural silhouettes with sensual tailoring, representing a generation that combines Italian fashion innovation with international appeal. However, his ambitions remain anchored in both artistic and commercial structures. “The Fashion Trust is becoming something we didn’t have but desperately needed,” he said. “It’s a platform where emerging designers can find solid ground.”
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Detail from Francesco Murano's latest collection MÖBIUS
Moja Rowa, a Berlin-based label led by Yelena Mojarova and Benedikt Sittler, operates at the intersection of minimalism and multiculturalism, merging fluid forms with conceptual depth. Their approach reflects the growing global vision within the Italian fashion industry. Their win isn’t just a personal milestone but also a statement about the international nature of modern Italian fashion.
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Highlights from Moja Rowa's experience at Camera Moda Fashion Trust 2025
Another noteworthy brand is Institution, led by Galib Gassanoff, who candidly admitted he’s still running the business from his apartment. Winning the grant could be the catalyst that turns a one-man show into a full-scale fashion house.
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Outfit from INSTITUTION collection "EL"
Lastly, Lessico Familiare, a collective led by Riccardo Scaburri (a fashion design professor at Istituto Marangoni Milano), along with Alice Curti and Alberto Petillo, emerged as the wild card. They are considered “outsiders” with a conceptually rich yet commercially elusive identity. However, this uniqueness is exactly what made them winners: they represent a new kind of inclusive Made in Italy fashion, driven by narrative and cultural nuance. As they admitted, “We didn’t think we fit the mould, but now we see that’s our strength.”
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Lessico Familiare pieces featured in "Soft Rebellion", editorial published on The Cold Magazine
Beyond the Hype: Building Sustainable Fashion Careers in Italy
Let’s be honest: fashion can be fickle. For young designers, the journey from passion project to profitability is filled with challenges. However, the Fashion Trust’s approach is refreshingly grounded. The focus is not just on aesthetics—though there is certainly plenty of that—but also on strategy, sustainability, and long-term viability.
The finalists of the CNMI Fashion Trust Grant 2025 had the opportunity to pitch their projects at Fondazione Sozzani in Bovisa, an increasingly vital cultural space known for its grassroots support of young talent and innovative fashion showcases. The goal was to bring these designers out of the isolated hustle of solo presentations and foster a collaborative community.
“It’s important that we create a moment in time and space where these designers, often scattered between presentations and shows, can come together,” Sozzani Maino explained. That sense of community is what elevates this initiative from another grant into a meaningful movement.
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Snapshots of Camera Moda Fashion Trust 2025 finalists
How Italy’s New Designers Are Rewriting Fashion’s Rules
This new wave of Italian designers isn’t just talented but also strategic, socially conscious, and deeply aware of the impact fashion can and should have.
With a focus on environmentally responsible materials, gender-fluid collections, and purpose-driven narratives, these creatives are transforming both the industry and the concept of sustainable Italian fashion, creating a new “Made in Italy” that is more inclusive, more connected, and unmistakably modern.
The industry is beginning to take notice. While legacy fashion houses continue to dominate headlines, these emerging voices are quietly shaping the future of fashion today. The old guard laid the foundation, and now the new guard is rebuilding the house.
The CNMI Fashion Trust Grant 2025: Empowering the Future of Made in Italy
Italy’s fashion heritage is unmatched, but it’s the country’s ability to evolve that will determine its staying power. By investing in young creatives—not just financially but structurally—initiatives like the CNMI Fashion Trust Grant ensure that the next generation is not only visible but also supported, mentored, and empowered. The truth is, the future of fashion doesn’t start five years from now; it started last week in Milan, and it’s proudly Italian.