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Nov 08, 2023

Philomania drove Philophiles crazy: What went down at Phoebe Philo’s first drop

Phoebe Philo is a name that needs no introduction in fashion. Her rebranding of Celine has had a revolutionary impact on admirers of her work worldwide, who proudly label themselves as Philophiles. Her long-awaited solo debut has finally dropped after six years of anticipation since her farewell to Celine, which resulted in thousands of fans flocking to her new website and led to most of the collection selling out before the world could even process it. What’s remarkable is that she achieved this without any advertising or shows, highlighting the immense influence and power her name wields in the industry. 

From Monday, 30 October, is offering the first edit, named A1. Here is the website homepage

From Monday, 30 October, is offering the first edit, named A1. Here is the website homepage

Phoebe Philo’s debut 150-piece collection, labelled as A1, encompasses everything a Philophile would identify as a blend of strength and sensuality, power and allure. This collection seamlessly carries forward the subtle inspiration and elegance seen in her previous works while infusing a rugged twist with bold silhouettes, a playground of asymmetry, and striking proportions. Intricate details abound, including hand-combed embroidery and zipper details. Oversized sunglasses and XL cabas, shoes and bags made from both patented and calf leather. A1 features a vampy colour palette with hues of oxblood, concrete, cigar, and deep berry, as well as neutrals like khaki, stucco, laurel and white. 

Notably, Phoebe Philo’s first solo collection wouldn’t be complete without one of the most popular and talked-about items in the batch: the “mum” necklace, available in both gold and silver. This exquisite piece is designed to rest at the base of your neck and features the repeated pattern of the word “mum” encircling your neck, adding an opulent touch to the collection. Even the gold version sold out in no time despite its price tag of around £3,000. End customers seem to really appreciate a design that says motherhood loud and proud “in an industry that could do more to celebrate women,” as The Guardian reported, subtly referring to the debate over the creative directions of big brands falling almost exclusively to Caucasian male designers. “Philo is famously the first designer at such a high level to take maternity leave – she was creative director of the luxury fashion house Chloé when she had her first child. Not long after, she left the job to spend four years raising her family.” 

The first Phoebe Philo collection comprises an edit of 150 pieces

The first Phoebe Philo collection comprises an edit of 150 pieces

The former Celine designer is undeniably now placing herself among the upper echelons of the fashion industry with a price point of A1. Her confidence in her work is well-placed, as most of her website is painted red with a rather disappointing message: “Sold out.”

@ideservecouture Fill in the blank: “The prices for these Phoebe Philo pieces are ____________” #phoebephilo #tiktokfashion #fashionforyou #luxury ♬ original sound - ideservecouture

While many fans couldn’t get a single item due to the quick sell-out of Phoebe Philo’s pieces, they took over social media to manifest their frustration in the most creative way possible. Among brilliant memes and ironic statements, this one deserves a round of applause: “Phoebe Philo didn’t stop at ‘Open your purse!’ She said, ‘Sell your house, rob a bank, and do some credit card fraud too!’” said user yosoymichael, editor at THEM MAGAZINE, on X. 

Phoebe Philo’s first release is evidently a success, offering a diverse range of pieces that cater to a wide audience. Her exceptional mastery of tailoring is evident, and her talent for making ready-to-wear garments look effortlessly eccentric is on full display. It is the perfect collection to showcase the artistry and essence of who Philo really is, as herself, not as the creative director of Celine or Chloe. This is the real Phoebe Philo.



Harini Nittala
Fashion Styling student, London