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Nov 08, 2023

Phoebe Philo-sophy

The logo is red, intense, created with an elegant and classic font, as if she wanted to let people think: “She’s back! And from today, everything will change.” Solemnly. A great return has stirred the waters of the international fashion system, creating a digital tsunami of compulsive shopping and stylistic nostalgia.

Phoebe Philo, the great former designer of Céline – with an accent on the E – and Chloé before, unveiled the first collection of the brand that bears her name.

Phoebe Philo has returned to fashion with her own line

Phoebe Philo has returned to fashion with her own line

In the past, her fashion was very popular with women who love the conceptual vision of fashion, one that goes beyond shapes, colours and materials. And that speaks, in all languages, of an evolved storytelling. 

Everyone was expecting a general acclamation of the “goddess who returned to the world to save fashion from streetwear”. A sort of unconditional celebration of Philo-sophy’s comeback. Yet, this was not the case. Or rather, not all the way. 

The world of fashion seems to be divided into two groups, with some being ecstatic, loving the first collection desperately, and others who remained uncertain as to whether Phoebe Philo’s return was really necessary. 

@venustongnyc come unbox my @phoebephiloltd order. how cute are these loafers with denim jeans? what do you think? #review #phoebephilo #style #loafers #clubloafer60 ♬ greedy - Tate McRae

In the meantime, the new brand’s website ( has seen most of its pricey clothing and accessories sell out, so we can say the drop was highly appreciated. However, it’s unclear how many pieces were available during the launch of Philo’s first collection online a few days ago. Was the limited availability a deliberate sell-out strategy to fuel fashion FOMO? In other words, if you didn’t get to purchase something during the initial launch and everyone else is now wearing it, the feeling of missing out on something big would be quite strong. It remains to be seen whether everyone, literally everyone out there, will be wearing Phoebe Philo from the day the first drop is delivered. Only time will tell.



Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Master Course Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan