Why Middle Eastern perfumery is changing the way Europe smells: From oud to vanilla
From oud and vanilla to fragrance layering, exploring how Europe and the Middle East continue to inspire one another through scent
Why are Middle Eastern perfumes having such an impact across Europe? From the global rise of oud and fragrance layering to the growing demand for long-lasting scents, many of today’s biggest trends can be traced back to traditions that have thrived across the Middle East for centuries. Yet this is not simply a story of influence flowing in one direction. As niche brands continue to gain attention, the exchange between Middle Eastern and European fragrance styles has become one of the most significant shifts in the beauty industry.
Esxence 2026 – Sensing the World, held in Milan in early June, was the perfect opportunity to explore this dialogue. Widely regarded as the leading international event for artistic perfumery, the fair brought together industry professionals, perfumers and fragrance lovers to see how ingredients, rituals and creative approaches are crossing borders.
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Among the most insightful conversations was Perfume Crossroads – Italy & the Middle East: Where Scents Become Bridges. Hosted by fragrance house MANE, the panel examined how two distinct perfume cultures continue to shape each other, featuring Bruno Chezzi (MANE Italy’s Fragrance Director), Cristina Stefanutti (Marketing Manager for the Fragrance Division), and perfumers Benjamin Bélizon and Cristiano Canali.
As the first French group and a global leader in fragrance and flavour, MANE is known for its commitment to both technology and creativity. Its Fine Fragrance Creative Studios, located in Paris, São Paulo, Milan, Dubai and New York, serve as hubs of experimentation where some of the world’s most distinctive scents are created, pushing perfumery into new territory.
How Middle Eastern and European Perfumery Continue to Influence One Another
The relationship between Italy and the Middle East isn’t just a passing trend but a long-standing connection. Perfume has always been a marker of identity, carrying both symbolic meaning and emotional resonance.
Today, more than ever, East and West are influencing each other, creating a space where aesthetics, rituals and expectations come together. In particular, the notion of performance—a hallmark of Middle Eastern perfumery—has become increasingly important in the Italian market, where longevity and intensity now drive consumer preferences.
As the panel’s title suggests, fragrance functions as a bridge, amplifying identities while revealing unexpected common ground.
The Ingredients Linking Italy and the Middle East
At the heart of this exchange is the movement of raw materials. Historically, ingredients such as spices, citrus fruits, and woods travelled along trade routes linking Italy’s great port cities—Venice, Amalfi and Palermo—to the Middle East, leading to deep cultural blending.
Citrus cultivation, refined with Arab agricultural knowledge, is a perfect example. Similarly, the tradition of the scented garden shows a shared love of nature, beauty, and ritual.
Craftsmanship also played a key role. Patchouli leaves were once used to protect precious silk fabrics during long journeys, while decorative arts and textiles added both visual and olfactory appeal.
Italy’s distinctive taste for contrast, evident in its food culture, translates naturally into perfumery, where bold pairings create layered compositions. Both regions share similar scent memories: powdery accords, zesty citrus, rose nuances, the warmth of coffee, and indulgent, gourmand notes such as honey.
Why Oud, Musk, Rose and Vanilla Remain Global Fragrance Icons
Some ingredients really show how deep this connection goes, balancing familiar references with fresh twists. BĂ©lizon and Canali took the audience through a curated exploration of the notes most cherished by both cultures, enriched by references to some of the most iconic fragrances in global perfumery.
Rose: The Fragrance Note That Connects East and West
Originating in Persia, rose is still a cornerstone of global perfumery. Its versatility allows it to pair effortlessly with fruits, woods, and spices, making it one of the most enduring scent bridges between East and West.
This connection comes alive in fragrances such as Rose d’Arabie from the Armani Privé collection, known for its rich, woody character, and Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle, which brings a bold chypre identity.
Musk: The Secret Behind Long-Lasting Fragrances
Renowned for its longevity, musk resonates strongly with the Italian market’s growing focus on performance. Its multiple facets—from powdery to floral—give perfumers a wide range of creative possibilities. In the Middle East, musk has long played a central role in layering rituals, adding depth and personalisation.
Among the fragrances discussed by the panel were Pure Musk by Narciso Rodriguez, which harmonises elegantly with florals, and Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi, celebrated for its unmistakably powdery character.
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White Flowers: The Floral Notes Redefining Gender
Jasmine and other white florals are rich and sensual. More and more, they are seen as gender-neutral, challenging traditional ideas about fragrance.
Honour Woman by Amouage stands out as a compelling example: a luminous composition built around a lush bouquet of white flowers, unfolding with refined elegance and a delicate infusion of spices, including pepper and coriander.
Vanilla: Why This Fragrance Trend Shows No Sign of Fading
A long-time favourite in Italy and one of the most valued ingredients in perfumery, vanilla continues to evolve through contemporary reinterpretations, sometimes with surprisingly intense, even addictive results. In the Middle East, it is often paired with spices and woods, balancing sweetness with strength.
Vanilla appeals to all generations. Consider the remarkable success of Bianco Latte by Giardini di Toscana, a fragrance that has become a favourite among Gen Z in recent years. Meanwhile, Vanille Antique by Byredo captures the complex facets of the vanilla pod and reveals its multifaceted character at every stage of the composition.
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Woods: The Smoky Notes Behind Fragrance Layering
Smoky woods are at the heart of Middle Eastern olfactory rituals, often layered to heighten the experience and add richness to every fragrance.
By the Fireplace by Maison Margiela, with its warm amber notes, and Aventus by Creed are standout examples of how these scents connect with both Italian and Middle Eastern audiences.
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Leather: From Italian Craftsmanship to Middle Eastern Luxury
In Italy, leather is closely associated with craftsmanship and luxury, making it a nuanced note that perfumers often soften with tobacco or milky accords. In contrast, the Middle East celebrates leather’s bold intensity, frequently pairing it with saffron.
Iconic references include Ombré Leather by Tom Ford, a global bestseller, and Falcon Leather by Matière Première, both of which exemplify why leather remains such a timeless and sophisticated choice.
Amber Woods: The Rise of High-Performance Fragrances
Responding to growing demand for long-lasting fragrances, amber woods represent a natural evolution in both markets, offering impressive projection and remarkable staying power.
Notable examples include Megamare by Orto Parisi, whose marine identity has contributed to its success through seaweed notes and a hint of lemon, and the globally acclaimed Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
Oud: The Middle Eastern Ingredient Transforming Global Perfumery
Rich, animalic and multifaceted, oud has been at the core of Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries. In Italy, it’s a newer arrival, often appearing in blends that soften its most intense facets.
The panel discussed oud’s growing role in artistic perfumery, with several master perfumers making it their signature. Pierre Montale, for example, is closely linked to Black Oud. Other standout takes include Oud Satin Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, celebrated for its floral elegance, and Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums, famous for its distinctly spicier character.
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How Middle Eastern Perfumery Is Shaping the Future of Fragrance
While each region maintains its own olfactory preferences and adapts to new audiences—including Gen Z, who are increasingly drawn to niche fragrances with strong identities—the connection between Italy and the Middle East remains undeniable.
Over time, ingredients, traditions and creative approaches have crossed borders. The result is a network of invisible bridges, showing that perfumery is, at heart, a collective expression.
The panel ended with a memorable moment. MANE’s perfumers invited the audience to join a guided scent experience, unveiling three fragrances made just for the event. This sensory journey featured key notes like patchouli, mandarin and a refined sea-salt accord: an evocative finale that translated theory into emotion and brought the dialogue between Italy and the Middle East to life.
Silvia Tarini
Editor