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Apr 23, 2025

Why fashion archives are now going public

With Prada and designer Valentino Garavani’s foundation in Rome, fashion turns their once hidden places of safekeeping into cultural destinations

 

Once upon a time, fashion archives were sacred spaces, hidden behind closed doors and accessible only to designers, curators, researchers, and a select few fashion insiders. But times are changing. As the boundaries between fashion, art, and culture blur more than ever, luxury brands are beginning to share their heritage with the world. In doing so, they are creating some of the most exciting and unexpected cultural destinations to explore today.

Fashion archives are no longer places for storage or academic research; they are becoming dynamic and interactive hubs where creativity is preserved, celebrated, and reimagined. Think of them as the new museums for those with a passion for aesthetics. Leading this evolution are some of the most iconic names in the Italian fashion system, such as Prada and Valentino.

 

Prada’s Archive Isn’t Quiet and Soon, It Might Not Be Private Either

Stepping into the world of Prada reveals more than just minimalist chic and intellectual glamour. What lies beneath the surface, quite literally, is an impressive commitment to memory and preservation.

At two major locations—Milan and Valvigna in Tuscany—the Prada Group maintains one of the most extensive fashion archives in the world. We’re talking 52,990 garments, over 10,850 eyewear pieces, and 14,820 research items, all meticulously catalogued and stored in climate-controlled environments. Each item has a unique barcode that tells its full story.

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The archive is far more than a storage space; it’s a fashion time machine. Within the Archivio Collezioni, you can find the most iconic and representative garments across all product categories, including knitwear, jersey, men’s and women’s tailoring, outerwear, skirts, trousers, accessories, and even lingerie and ties. Items are organised by brand (Prada, Miu Miu) and by season, forming a detailed and structured timeline of the evolution of these fashion houses.

Then there’s the Archivio Sfilate, which houses runway looks from Prada Donna, Prada Uomo, and Miu Miu Donna, dating all the way back to 1990. It also features pieces created for artistic collaborations and film productions as a testament to how fashion at this level isn’t just wearable; it’s cinematic, narrative-driven, and deeply cultural. Among the archival treasures are costumes designed for films like The Grand Budapest Hotel, Australia, and The Great Gatsby, which serve as wearable pieces of modern mythology. 

Some of the most intricate and delicate items, crafted from rare fabrics and adorned with ornate embroidery and embellishments, are stored in specially designed boxes. Periodic conservation checks are conducted to ensure that time has as little impact as possible on these pieces.

Now, for the first time, there are increasing whispers that Prada’s archive may soon open to the public. If this happens, it would mark a groundbreaking shift in how we perceive brand heritage, turning private legacy into public art.

 

In Rome, Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti Opens the Doors to a New Cultural Landmark

Meanwhile, in the heart of Rome, a new landmark of fashion and culture has emerged, blending historical elegance with forward-thinking creativity. This is PM23, the newly opened public space established by the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti.

Located in Palazzo Gabrielli Mignanelli at number 23 in Piazza Mignanelli, PM23 stands in a historically rich site that now serves a fresh purpose. The building, which was once a printing school in the 19th century, has undergone a significant architectural transformation led by Nemesi Architects, combining modern innovation with classical Roman beauty.

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“This venue will host the cultural activities supported by the Fondazione, creating a space where arts and culture intertwine, bridging fashion and contemporary art,” they stated. “It marks the beginning of a dynamic cultural and exhibition program designed to establish PM23 as a key destination for creativity and emerging talent.

At its core lies a guiding principle: “Beauty creates beauty.” This serves as the foundation’s mission to support and foster creative expression.

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The inaugural exhibition at PM23, set for this spring, is a tribute to the creative legacy of Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, whose collaboration has profoundly influenced decades of haute couture with precision and poetic elegance. The exhibition is expected to combine archival fashion pieces with contemporary artworks, fostering a dialogue between past and present, as well as between craft and concept. 

But the foundation’s reach extends beyond just an exhibition space. It has been actively involved in cultural preservation, notably with the Teatro Valentino Garavani in Voghera, which the foundation has helped restore and reopen to the public. This long-term vision—making beauty accessible, functional, and enduring—is central to everything FVG does. By opening the doors of PM23 to the public, the foundation not only honours Valentino’s past but also lays the groundwork for future generations to explore, learn, and be inspired.

 

Fashion Archives as Cultural Destinations

So, what makes archives and foundations such powerful places in today’s cultural landscape?

Firstly, they reflect a growing desire to slow down and reflect on the past. In an era defined by fast fashion and digital overload, the careful curation and preservation of fashion’s finest works offer a tactile, emotional, and intellectual escape. They reconnect us to the craftsmanship, stories, and cultural context that gave rise to each creation.

Secondly, these spaces challenge the traditional notion of museums. They are not neutral spaces exhibiting artworks; they are deeply personal, branded, curated environments that offer an intimate glimpse into the minds and visions of the creative forces behind the brands.

Finally, fashion archives signal a kind of democratisation of luxury. While the clothes showcased on Prada’s runway or Valentino’s couture presentations may be unattainable for most, the opening of these spaces invites everyone to engage with the narrative—students, travellers, artists and thinkers alike.

 

Is the Future of Fashion Archived?

With Prada and Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti leading the way, it’s only a matter of time before more luxury houses and couturiers follow suit. Fashion archives are evolving from mere safekeeping to becoming a stage, a classroom for students and even a sanctuary—a place where fashion history is not only preserved but also celebrated.

 

 

Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Master Course Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan