What centuries of garment reuse in Italy can teach us about upcycling and sustainable fashion today
Upcycling is often presented as one of fashion’s newest ideas. The research discussed in this article suggests otherwise. Long before the principles of circularity entered the industry’s vocabulary, garments across Italy were being repaired, adapted, rethought and transformed as part of everyday life. What is now framed as a contemporary innovation was, for generations, a practical form of knowledge born out of necessity and embedded in households, workshops and local textile cultures. In the article that follows, Professor Angelo Ruggeri reflects on presenting this research at the Costume Society of America Symposium 2026 alongside fashion historian Isabella Campagnol. Their study traces the historical roots of upcycling in Italy and explores how past practices of garment reuse and transformation can offer valuable insights into the future of sustainable fashion.
Italy’s Tradition of Garment Reuse Long Predates Modern Upcycling
Standing before an audience of international scholars, curators, researchers, and fashion professionals at the Costume Society of America Symposium 2026 in Charlotte, North Carolina, was both an honour and an unforgettable experience. Widely regarded as one of the most respected annual gatherings dedicated to the study of dress, textiles, fashion history and material culture, the symposium brings together leading voices from across the world to exchange ideas.
Being selected to present at such a prestigious gathering was a significant milestone in itself. Having the opportunity to share research developed together with fashion historian and professor Isabella Campagnol made the occasion even more meaningful. Our paper, Threads of Continuity. Historical Roots and Future Visions of Upcycling in Italian Fashion explored a topic at the intersection of history, sustainability, craftsmanship, and contemporary design: Italy’s long and fascinating tradition of upcycling.
The Costume Society of America Brings Fashion History Into Contemporary Conversation
Founded in 1973, the Costume Society of America (CSA) is one of the leading organisations devoted to advancing dress and fashion scholarship. Through research, publications, educational programs, exhibitions and its annual symposium, the Society fosters interdisciplinary dialogue among academics, museum professionals, collectors, designers, and students.
The annual symposium extends well beyond the format of a traditional academic conference; it serves as a meeting point for historical research and contemporary debate, bringing together perspectives that range from textile conservation to fashion innovation. Discussions about the past frequently open new avenues for understanding the present, reinforcing the idea that clothing should be viewed not only through an aesthetic lens but also as an artefact capable of revealing social, economic, political and environmental histories.
Upcycling in Fashion Has Deep Historical Roots Beyond Today’s Sustainability Movement
Today, the term “upcycling” is often associated with sustainability movements, emerging designers, and circular fashion initiatives. One of the central arguments of our research, however, is that the practice itself has a much longer history in Italy than the language currently used to describe it.
Far from being a recent invention, garment transformation has deep historical roots embedded in everyday life, artisanal traditions and material culture. Drawing on archival research spanning several centuries, we sought to demonstrate that the reuse, adaptation and reinvention of clothing have long been integral to Italian society and its relationship with dress.
Growing Concerns About Textile Waste Have Renewed Interest in Traditional Practices
This historical perspective is particularly significant in light of the renewed attention that upcycling has received in recent years.
As concerns surrounding the environmental impact of fashion have intensified, practices once regarded as outdated have returned to the forefront of industry conversations. Their contemporary expression, however, differs substantially from earlier forms. What was once primarily a domestic practice has evolved into a sophisticated design strategy embraced by innovative fashion companies, independent labels and creative entrepreneurs.
Our research examined several Italian case studies, including Lessico Familiare and Rifò, two brands that exemplify distinct approaches to integrating upcycling into design and business models. Despite their distinct methodologies, both demonstrate how sustainable production can coexist with strong aesthetics, craftsmanship and commercial viability.
Italian Brands Are Showing How Heritage and Circular Fashion Can Work Together
One of the themes that generated the most engaging discussions during our presentation was the role of younger generations.
While emerging designers are often portrayed as detached from traditional practices, many are actively rediscovering and adapting historical practices to contemporary challenges. Advanced technologies, digital platforms, innovative textile processes and new business models are enabling the reinterpretation of techniques and values that have existed for centuries.
This creates a fascinating intergenerational dialogue. Knowledge once passed down through necessity—repairing, reusing and transforming garments to extend their lifespan—now intersects with a growing environmental awareness among designers seeking alternatives to linear models of production and consumption. The result is a forward-looking vision of fashion that combines heritage and innovation.
Viewed through this lens, upcycling extends beyond the technical act of reworking materials. It becomes a practice capable of connecting generations, bridging different forms of expertise and encouraging new ways of understanding value within fashion.
What Fashion’s Sustainable Future Can Learn from the Past
Presenting this research at the Costume Society of America Symposium 2026 was undoubtedly a major academic achievement. More importantly, it provided an opportunity to contribute to an international discussion about the future of fashion through the perspective of its past.
Sharing the stage with scholars from different countries and disciplines reinforced an important lesson: many of the solutions we seek for contemporary challenges can be found by revisiting historical practices and understanding the knowledge embedded within them.
Together with Isabella Campagnol, I was proud to bring an Italian perspective to this international dialogue. The enthusiastic response from attendees confirmed that the story of upcycling reaches far beyond questions of sustainability alone. It is also a story of memory, creativity, resilience and the enduring ability of fashion to adapt, evolve, and reinvent itself.
As the fashion industry continues to search for more responsible paths forward, looking to the past is increasingly being recognised as a valuable source of inspiration for imagining the future. Some of the ideas that appear most innovative today have, in fact, been woven into the history of fashion for generations, waiting to be rediscovered for a new era.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Tutor for Styling, Business and Design Course and Master’s Programmes, Milan