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Jun 26, 2024

Nautical bermudas vs. acid green coats: The hottest men’s SS25 trends from Milan

From Gucci’s latest colour craze to MSGM’s maritime allure, Prada’s trompe l’oeil collars, and the frenzy over socks—these are the highlights from MFW


When it comes to Spring-Summer 2025 men’s trends, all eyes are on the recently concluded Milan Fashion Week. Alongside the major fashion houses gracing the runway, many brands presented their collections during one of the most significant Big Four fashion weeks.

The elegance of Canali, the cutting-edge fabric experimentation by A-COLD-WALL*, and the functional sophistication of Oratio brought an exciting edge to the event.

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Un post condiviso da Sabato De Sarno (@sabatods)

Highlights included Sabato De Sarno’s second menswear show for Gucci and the surprise debut of Valentino’s first drop by Alessandro Michele, former creative director of Gucci, on the same day. 

That’s what we call a designer showdown, with each vying for attention with their collections.

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Un post condiviso da Martine Rose (@martine_rose)

But there’s much more to it. Also defining next summer’s menswear trends, some British designers made their first appearance in Milan, like Martine Rose, and regulars such as Jonathan Anderson with his JW Anderson. We can’t overlook the iconic shows in Italian fashion, including Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, and Zegna by Alessandro Sartori.

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Un post condiviso da Moschino (@moschino)

Additionally, Adrian Appiolaza showcased his vision in his first menswear collection as the creative director of Moschino, following his debut in the women’s line for the Aeffe-owned brand last March. Lastly, MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti celebrated its 15th anniversary, which was also noteworthy.

Curious for more? Join me in uncovering Spring-Summer 2025 men’s trends straight from Milan.


Beyond the Beach: Bermuda Shorts Redefining Men’s Fashion

Thanks to their relaxed silhouette and their emergence as a response to elite fashion or the trend of jorts (jean shorts) that dominated TikTok and adorned the legs of Gen Z and Gen Alpha last summer, Bermuda shorts have been heralded as the must-have pants for Spring-Summer 2025.

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Un post condiviso da Dolce&Gabbana (@dolcegabbana)

Dolce&Gabbana proposed an elegant vacation look with tailored Bermuda shorts as a casual alternative to more formal trousers. The shorts were paired with perforated polos, open-neck shirts, and tank tops.

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Un post condiviso da Neil Barrett (@neilbarrett)

Neil Barrett embraced casual wear and recontextualised a tailored men’s wardrobe with materials typically found in womenswear, giving Bermuda shorts an unconventional twist that emphasises their clean yet highly glamorous aesthetic.

Alternatively, next summer’s Bermuda shorts will appear in maxi leather versions with stud inserts, as seen in David Koma’s menswear debut.

Adrian Appiolaza for Moschino took the trend further by presenting all-white suits featuring oversized Bermuda shorts made from the classic honeycomb fabric, usually reserved for bathrobes.

Brunello Cucinelli opted for pleats and folds in tailored Bermuda shorts designed for comfort without compromising their timeless charm.


Wrap Up in Style: This Season’s Must-Have Outerwear

Even the unpredictable weather made an impact on Milan Fashion Week for men’s spring-summer 2025 attire, highlighting the enduring appeal of leather outerwear.

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Un post condiviso da GUCCI (@gucci)

Sabato De Sarno’s iconic statement came in the form of an acid green coat that opened Gucci’s runway, revealing itself as the key piece of a look paired with sharply tailored shorts—a testament to modernity and precision.

Also noteworthy were Dunhill’s selection of English gentleman’s outerwear and Silvia Venturini Fendi’s preppy interpretation, applying LVMH-owned fashion house’s Selleria craftsmanship to create check-patterned stitching on her coat design.


Illusion or Reality?

Dear creative duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, you’ve surprised us once again! Forget the idea of the classic shirt, a must-have in every man’s wardrobe, with its precise collar. For Prada’s Spring-Summer 2025, this detail is soft and rounded rather than crisply starched. Alternatively, collars take on a trompe l’oeil effect in contrasting fabrics on knitwear: Prada played with the illusion of collars attached to cardigans or designed on cropped, form-fitting sweaters and colour-blocked polos.

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Un post condiviso da Prada (@prada)

Jordanluca pushed boundaries by incorporating layered collars, while Emporio Armani opted for an all-or-nothing approach, making collars disappear and favouring striped mandarin-collar shirts.

Also mastering escapism from reality was JW Anderson, presenting an oversized collection perfect for TikTok’s Gen Z, known for their love of material experimentation.


Colour Alert! From Dusty Hues to Pastels and Vibrant Shades, the Chromatic Palette Takes Centre Stage 

Giorgio Armani toned down the volume of hues, reflecting the subdued tones of his beloved Pantelleria, a recurring inspiration in a collection that favours warm evening beige, daytime sky blues, or deep night-time shades, for an evocative result.

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Un post condiviso da Giorgio Armani (@giorgioarmani)

Dusty colours dominated Neil Barrett’s monochromatic suits in powder blue, as well as Brunello Cucinelli’s double-breasted tailored attire.

The upcoming warm season also craves vitality with touches of bright yellow, mint, pastel pink, and total white. Say yes to colour, as long as it’s balanced.


The Call of the Sea: Towards the Marinière and Beyond

Martine Rose made a memorable Milan debut with a runway that featured a parade of surreal characters, each embodying an unconventional beauty ideal. The show culminated in a look that seemed to offer a modern take on the marinière, where horizontal stripes turned vertical. The classic T-shirt lost its sleeves and transformed into a daring tank top that revealed plenty of bare skin with its thin straps and the bold “Martine” across the chest. There were echoes of advanced football jersey design, yet surely appealing to fans of the modern Querelle de Brest aesthetic. 

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Un post condiviso da MSGM (@msgm)

The charm of nautical fashion also enchanted MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti, whose entire collection evokes the essence of summer with bucket hats, stripes, and sailors doodled on bowling shirts. It feels like the designer transported us to a beachside bar without the hassle of airport queues.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label presented a more traditional blue and white version. Meanwhile, Fendi introduced stripes in varying sizes—mini and maxi, yet all collegiate-inspired.


Accessories Mania

In the trendsetting men’s looks for spring-summer 2025, accessories are essential. After all, we’re well aware of fashion houses’ business prowess surrounding these treasures—so much so that designing a coveted bag can elevate a stylist to the position of creative director. But we’ll return to bags later; right now, there’s something else that’s catching our attention: socks – something smaller and hopefully more affordable!

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Un post condiviso da Dhruv Kapoor (@dhruvkapoor)

Mainly worn with slides and loafers, socks have become the focal point in Dhruv Kapoor’s outfits, featuring the classic contrast of white socks with chunky black leather loafers. Alessandro Sartori from Zegna prefers a softer approach, matching ochre loafers with subtly coloured short socks that are almost invisible yet meticulously coordinated. 

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Un post condiviso da Paul Mescal Pics (@paulmescalpics)

This fondness for socks even caught the eye of front-row attendee Paul Mescal, a guest star at Gucci, who made a statement with cotton shorts, buckle loafers, and crisp white socks. Well done, Paul.

In recent seasons, the predominant trend on runways has been “mini,” but now there’s a shift. This change is also evident in the choice of bags. The emerging trend for men in Spring-Summer 2025 favours larger styles, whether they are shoulder bags or handheld. The spotlight shines on Prada’s square-shaped bag, which is already a hit among fashion aficionados. The key is to choose it in the coolest material, with a slightly worn effect in warm earth tones.



Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan