A golden age of fashion campaigns emerges as Gucci teams with Debbie Harry and Valentino’s Alessandro Michele draws from Fellini. But is it worth it?
In a world where advertising is often associated with quick, superficial messages, a transformative shift has emerged, heralding a new golden age for luxury campaigns.
Major high-end brands such as Burberry, under the creative direction of Daniel Lee, Gucci led by Sabato De Sarno, and Valentino, with Alessandro Michele at the helm, have elevated the art of fashion advertising. They incorporate intricate storytelling and cultural relevance and feature some of the most captivating personalities of our time in their visuals and videos.
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This resurgence of “coolness” in advertising represents more than just a return to form; it aims to establish a new frontier where fashion, art, and personality converge in a blend of creativity and culture.
However, amidst this evolution, a critical question arises: are these efforts—particularly given the substantial budgets allocated to such projects—justified? In other words, in a geopolitical landscape where luxury fashion faces significant challenges, balance sheets are faltering, and profits are dwindling, can fashion advertising truly restore the allure of luxury brands?
Is It Truly Always Burberry Weather?
Burberry’s latest campaign, “It’s Always Burberry Weather,” embodies the brand’s ability to fuse British tradition with contemporary cool. The campaign features iconic personalities like Oscar-winner Olivia Colman, footballer Cole Palmer, and rapper Little Simz, capturing a multifaceted representation of British culture.
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The campaign is set against the picturesque British countryside, cleverly combining the timeless appeal of Burberry’s classic outerwear with a modern, edgy style and a hint of irreverence.
Olivia Colman, for instance, is seen donning a quilted Burberry jacket while playfully watching a flock of sheep. This image perfectly encapsulates both the brand’s connection to British pastoral life and its relevance to today’s fashion-forward world.
The campaign showcases Burberry’s heritage pieces, including the signature trench coat, but with a modern twist to reflect the vision of creative director Daniel Lee. Since taking over in 2022, following his success at Bottega Veneta, Lee has been tasked with revitalising the brand, making it more accessible and appealing for everyday wear while still maintaining a sense of luxury. This new direction has not always received positive feedback, and it presents a significant challenge, especially for a brand that many industry experts believe would benefit more from focusing on product development and building a community around it rather than relying solely on runway shows.
@i_d WDYT of #daniellee’s first collection for #burberry? 💭 #burberryaw23 #tiktokfashion #fyp #danielleeburberry ♬ original sound - i-D
However, Daniel Lee is committed to creating a narrative around the brand’s codes; for this campaign, he has composed a British ode to Burberry’s outerwear heritage. This advertisement, much like Burberry itself, thrives on the delicate balance between tradition and modernity. The narrative doesn’t merely promote clothing; it tells a story about a place, culture, and lifestyle, with Olivia Colman’s charming and relatable presence adding warmth and humour to the world of high fashion.
Should Gucci Always Have Stars Like Debbie Harry?
Gucci, under the creative leadership of Sabato De Sarno, continues to push boundaries. Their recent campaign, “We Will Always Have London,” features Debbie Harry, the iconic lead singer of Blondie, and pays homage to both Gucci’s legacy and London’s enduring cultural significance.
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Shot by renowned photographer Nan Goldin, the latest Gucci fashion campaign not only highlights the luxurious Gucci Blondie handbag and De Sarno’s early Spring 2025 collection but also captures a spirit of rebellion and innovation.
Debbie Harry, a music legend celebrated for her bold spirit and pioneering influence, perfectly embodies Gucci’s message. Her presence connects the brand’s retro aesthetic with the contemporary sensibilities of a generation that values individuality and self-expression. The campaign is steeped in nostalgia while embracing modernity.
Gucci’s rich history, closely connected to the city of London, adds depth to the narrative. A young Guccio Gucci used to work at The Savoy Hotel in London, where he was inspired by the sophistication and elegance of the hotel’s clientele. This campaign reconnects Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci with those roots while celebrating Harry’s unyielding spirit, perfectly blending fashion, music, and cultural heritage.
At Alessandro Michele’s Valentino, Does Everything Always Align to Make the Debut Rich in Elements from the Past?
Alessandro Michele’s debut campaign for Valentino, promoting the “Avant les Débuts” 2025 resort collection—the very first under the new creative director for the Roman brand—is a homage to Italian film and culture. Inspired by Federico Fellini’s cinematic genius, the campaign blends the worlds of fashion and cinema in a visually striking narrative that oozes both eccentricity and nostalgia.
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Shot at Palazzo Mignanelli, Valentino’s headquarters in Rome, Alessandro Michele’s vision for the campaign was deeply rooted in the neorealism of directors like Luchino Visconti and the magic realism of Fellini.
The campaign features whimsical, dreamlike moments, such as a cardinal skating through the stately halls, alongside scenes reminiscent of aristocratic decadence. The film’s voiceover is taken directly from Fellini’s 1972 film “Roma,” creating a direct connection between Valentino’s rich history and Rome’s paradoxical beauty.
Michele’s vision goes beyond just clothing, evoking emotion and creating a world where fashion becomes art. His collaboration with photographer and director Glen Luchford adds to a cinematic feel to the campaign, offering a layered and immersive experience for the audience. Valentino’s campaign is a testament to how storytelling can elevate a fashion collection, transforming it from a product line into a work of art that resonates with both the past and the present.
In an era where consumers are increasingly seeking authenticity and meaning in their purchases, these campaigns are designed to resonate on all the right levels. They highlight today’s prevailing belief that fashion should be about more than just clothing; it encompasses the stories we tell, the cultures we celebrate, and the individuals who wear the garments.
As fashion advertising enters this new golden age, we can expect more brands to harness the power of storytelling to establish deeper connections with their audiences, dedicating greater efforts to transforming fashion into not merely something we wear but an experience we enjoy. And who knows—perhaps this shift will have a positive impact on revenues, at least to some extent.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan