India’s craftsmanship is everywhere in luxury fashion, but who gets the credit?
Indian craftsmanship shapes luxury fashion, from Bandhani to couture. Now the industry must rethink how it recognises and collaborates with artisans
Luxury fashion has long drawn from a global vocabulary of craftsmanship, yet few traditions have travelled as widely—or been as consistently overlooked—as those rooted in India. From intricate Bandhani textiles to centuries-old artisanal techniques, Indian design languages continue to enrich collections across the world’s leading maisons. As these influences resurface on international runways, important conversations are emerging around origin, authorship, and the recognition of heritage within today’s luxury landscape.
How Indian Craftsmanship Informs Luxury Fashion Today
India has a well-established reputation for its textiles, handicrafts and embroidery techniques. Over the years, numerous brands have drawn inspiration from these rich traditions.
Dior, under Maria Grazia Chiuri, has been widely praised for incorporating Indian textiles into its haute couture collections while supporting the women and craftspeople it collaborates with—a virtuous example within the industry. More recently, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons featured Kolhapuri footwear on the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, and subsequently collaborated with the artisans behind it. In terms of the visual narratives being evoked, Pharrell Williams drew inspiration from Jaipur trunks for Louis Vuitton Men’s SS26. By contrast, Ralph Lauren is currently prompting discussion around silver jhumkas and a Bandhani skirt.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Collaboration and Credit: How Luxury Fashion Engages with Indian Artisans Today
While luxury brands frequently collaborate with and support local communities, they often fall short in fully recognising the Indian artisans behind their work. The contrast is striking: while Indian gourmet cheeses are gaining international recognition for their distinctive flavours, the fashion industry continues to face questions around the cultural origins and attribution of many designs.
India continues to be an attractive market for luxury brands, and many creative talents are leveraging digital innovation alongside deep-rooted cultural heritage. This presents an opportunity for brands to honour craftsmanship and uphold the artistic integrity of these esteemed traditions, ensuring that credit is given where it is due.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
What Is Bandhani? The Cultural Meaning Behind India’s Ancient Tie-Dye Technique
Recently, a 5,000-year-old craft known as Bandhani appeared on the market as a luxury skirt priced at Rs 133,000—yet no credit was given to its origins. Created using traditional tie-dye techniques unique to Rajasthan and Gujarat, it has sparked debate over cultural ownership: is this cultural appropriation or appreciation?
Bandhani is far more than a trend; it traces its origins to the Indus Valley Civilisation over 5,000 years ago, with archaeological evidence suggesting its early use in the region. Ancient texts such as the Harshacharita and 6th-century Ajanta cave paintings also attest to the enduring presence of tie-dye traditions in South Asia long before modern times.
The craft takes its name from the Sanskrit word “bandhana,” meaning “to tie,” a nod to the meticulous process whereby each dot is formed by hand-tied techniques before dyeing, resulting in intricate patterns.
Over the centuries, Bandhani has spread and evolved, becoming integral to major life events such as festivals and weddings across Gujarat and Rajasthan. The colours used carry specific meanings: red symbolises marriage, yellow marks new beginnings, and green represents prosperity.
Each region has its distinct style; for example, Kutch, Jamnagar, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Sindh, and Surendranagar all feature unique dot patterns and motifs. Leheriya’s flowing lines evoke the movement of water, while the Chunari is crafted meticulously, with each dot built by hand.
The Sindhi Fakir (hippy) community introduced Bandhani to the Khatri community in Kutch. During the Mughal era, the craft gained popularity in royal courts under Emperor Akbar. By the 18th century, Bandhani silk apparel had already reached fashion capitals like London.
In 2021, the Kutch Bandhani received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, officially recognising its regional and cultural significance. Despite this, on the global stage, it is often still reduced to a label of “inspiration,” reflecting a gap between recognition and genuine understanding.
From Runway Trend to Cultural Narrative: Who Defines the Story Behind Indian Craftsmanship?
Luxury brands have faced backlash for overpricing Indian pieces, obscuring profit margins and failing to credit artisans. This is not a new problem. From Kolhapuri-style chappals, known for their hand-stitched leather and distinctive shape, to so-called “boho” jhumkas adorned with beads and embroidery on global runways, the work of South Asian artisans is often reinterpreted and rebranded without adequate acknowledgement.
While these aesthetics travel far beyond their origins, the intricate story of their cultural and historical roots is often overlooked.
This isn’t merely about imitation; it’s about who receives recognition and credit. Mass-produced copies may replicate the visual style, but they frequently erase the labour-intensive processes, authentic techniques and cultural significance that underpin these crafts.
Beyond Fashion: How Indian Cultural Practices Influence Global Lifestyles Today
Indian youth are actively challenging fashion brands, criticising the commercialisation of yoga, the rebranding of pilates as a modern fitness trend, and the renaming of traditional hair oil rituals like champi with contemporary marketing—all while meditative practices are packaged with Western terminology.
This ongoing pattern reflects a persistent effort to extract Indian cultural elements, distil their essence and repackage them into marketable products for Western audiences.
For many in India, it feels like yet another day where global brands appropriate Indian culture without due recognition.
As the fascination with Indian craft in global fashion is longstanding, today’s conversation extends beyond mere inspiration to questions of credit, context and equitable profit-sharing rooted in India’s rich heritage.
The Designers Repositioning Indian Craftsmanship at the Centre of Luxury Fashion
Indian brands deliver exceptional quality in “Bandhani craft.” Ritu Kumar is a seasoned Indian designer celebrated for her enduring collections that highlight the intricate beauty of Bandhani, the traditional tie-dye textile art she has showcased for several decades.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Among Indian fashion labels, several brands are gaining prominence with their “Bandhej” (Bandhani) collections, renowned for their meticulous finishing and highly detailed craftsmanship. Esteemed designers such as Abu Jani - Sandeep Khosla and Anamika Khanna have skilfully integrated Bandhani techniques into their exquisite ready-to-wear lines, offering Indian consumers a blend of heritage craftsmanship and contemporary style.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Why Demand for Indian Craftsmanship Is Rising Among a New Generation of Consumers
Recently, emerging brands like Misri by Meghna Nayyar, Mulmul, iTokri, Karaj Jaipur and Zari Jaipur have introduced affordable, modern ready-to-wear options that appeal to younger consumers. Torani, in particular, has captured the attention and admiration of trendsetting celebrities and young fashion enthusiasts in India’s urban centres.
Indian designers continue to demonstrate how the detailed artistry of Bandhani can be elevated into high-end fashion, consistently leaving a lasting impact and showcasing rich cultural heritage through innovative design.
What the Future of Luxury Fashion Looks Like When Craft Heritage Leads the Industry
Let the culture flourish in its origins. Young Indian designers take pride in their artistic ideas, carefully crafting fashion that honours the rich heritage of traditional textiles, intricate embroidery, and handcrafted techniques passed down through generations.
Craftsmanship—such as handloom weaving, tie-dye, and detailed embellishments—deserves to be preserved, celebrated, and respected as part of its cultural lineage. Authenticity should speak for itself, rooted in tradition, rather than be diluted or distorted beyond recognition for mass production. As these crafts gain global attention, it becomes increasingly important to ensure that artisans and their communities are recognised and included in the benefits, especially when their unique creations reach new markets and higher price points.
Recognising and supporting these artisans, whose skills hold invaluable cultural significance, is essential to honouring their legacy and ensuring their craftsmanship continues to thrive for generations to come.
Jasmine Dawda
Fashion journalist and alumna, Mumbai