From fitted silhouettes to Olympic-led performance wear, Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW 2026 reflects a shift towards intention, function and longevity
After four days of runway shows and presentations at Milan Fashion Week Men’s, a clear shift emerged: discussing Fall/Winter 2026-27 menswear no longer meant defining trends in the traditional sense. With luxury sales still under pressure—just days earlier, Saks Global, the largest luxury retail group in the United States, filed for bankruptcy—the conversation in Milan moved away from novelty and signature aesthetics towards a broader recalibration of expectations shared by designers, journalists, buyers and customers alike.
Rather than chasing disruption, luxury menswear in Milan turned inward. Tailoring became more exacting, tradition was renewed with precision, and details historically coded as masculine or feminine circulated with increasing ease. Silhouettes moved closer to the body, while performance-driven wardrobes inspired by winter sports surfaced across collections—an early nod to the upcoming Milan Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics.
As theatrical gestures and rigid thematic frameworks receded—most notably at houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, which stepped away from its usual narrative-driven approach to explore multiple male archetypes rather than a single, unifying theme—men’s fashion in Milan appeared increasingly focused on function, longevity and relevance.
Here are the 4+1 signals emerging from Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2026-27—not trends in the conventional sense, but markers of how menswear is redefining itself right now.
1. The Return of Fitted Silhouettes at Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW 2026-27
After seasons of oversized silhouettes and concealed forms, the body has reemerged. At Prada, garments followed the body’s shape without clinging, reintroducing closeness as a form of intelligence. This wasn’t about exposure, but about restoring a sense of presence. Menswear now seems comfortable inhabiting the body again—without making it a spectacle.
“There has been a lot of loose [clothing]. But I think that [slim-fit] is also comforting in a way; it’s got a very soft shoulder, it’s not hard. But yes, we did want to make that statement,” explained Prada co-creative director Raf Simons to Vogue.
Prada menswear look with a soft-shouldered green sweater layered over a shirt, straight khaki trousers and sneakers, following the body’s shape with ease and restraint. Courtesy Prada.
2. Tailoring as Investment: Milan Menswear’s Response to the Luxury Slowdown
Tailoring is everything. And it must endure. In Milan, jackets, coats, and trousers struck a new balance between structure and comfort, all while drawing on the past.
Alessandro Sartori, for example, drew from the wardrobes of successive Zegna generations to craft tailoring that feels authoritative yet never rigid—luxury expressed through thoughtful detail.
3. How Milan Cortina 2026 Is Influencing Menswear Collections
Unsurprisingly, the upcoming Milan Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics was felt throughout fashion month, especially in Milan.
Ralph Lauren’s collection ranged from the refined Purple Label to the more casual Polo line. As the official outfitter of Team USA, part of the offering leaned into snow knits and ski suits inspired by winter sports.
DSquared2 staged a show inspired by Team Canada, complete with mountains and artificial snow. Here, Hudson Williams—star of the viral ice-hockey drama Heated Rivalry—opened the show, igniting excitement among fans.
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4. When Gender Stops Being a Statement in Contemporary Menswear
What stood out wasn’t gender fluidity as a statement, but as an assumption. Details once considered “feminine” moved freely through menswear, while traditionally masculine codes softened without much explanation.
Prada menswear look featuring a glossy green coat worn over a black turtleneck, slim black trousers, leather sandals and a technical backpack. Courtesy Prada. Draping, delicacy, ornamentation, and restraint coexisted naturally at brands like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. Perhaps the era of announcing inclusivity is finally over, replaced by simply practising it, fluidly and without proclamations.
Dolce & Gabbana menswear look with a textured tailored jacket, black trousers, leather gloves, statement collar detailing and a structured clutch. Courtesy Dolce&Gabbana.
4+1. Why Intention Matters More Than Trends in Milan Menswear FW 2026-27
If one element unified the season, it was intention. Even when collections weren’t spectacular, they felt honest and aligned with the need to navigate a dark moment for the luxury industry. In an oversaturated system struggling to save itself, honesty itself feels radical.
The trends from Milan Men’s Fashion Week FW26-27 weren’t designed to impress for their own sake. Rather than dictating what men will wear next winter, this season revealed how menswear wants to exist now: closer to the body, more attuned to life, performative yet useful, and precise without hype. For now, that’s enough.
Dolce & Gabbana menswear look with a leather jacket, polka-dot shirt, tailored trousers, gloves and glasses, balancing sharp tailoring and restraint in a season focused on intention over spectacle. Courtesy Dolce&Gabbana.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Editor, Milano