Shein opens its first permanent store inside BHV Le Marais, sparking debate over Parisian luxury, sustainability, and the future of Made in France
Shein’s Paris Store Sparks a Cultural Clash Over Luxury, Fast Fashion and Sustainability
Earlier this October, France was set ablaze with debate as Shein—the Chinese ultra-fast-fashion giant—announced its first permanent physical store, right in the heart of Paris. And not just anywhere in the world’s fashion capital: inside the legendary BHV Le Marais, one of the city’s most iconic department stores.
Frédéric Merlin, President of Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), the group that owns BHV, shared the news through a lengthy internal letter describing the partnership as “revolutionary.” But for many, it felt more like a cultural shockwave.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Shein’s first permanent Paris store at BHV Le Marais ignites controversy, merging ultra-fast fashion with French luxury heritage
Because in a world ruled by algorithms, over-consumption and instant gratification, Paris has long stood as the last bastion of true luxury—where craftsmanship, heritage, and l’art de vivre à la française remain deeply rooted cultural values. Now, with the arrival of an ultra-fast-fashion behemoth in the City of Lights, one question lingers: is the Parisian dream at risk of collapse?
How does this unexpected alliance with Shein mirror today’s French—and especially Parisian—culture, consumer behaviour, and sustainability stance?
BHV Le Marais x Shein: When Parisian Heritage Faces Fast Fashion
Founded in 1855 by Xavier Ruel in Rue de Rivoli, BHV started out with a “bazar” spirit. Since it was located right next to the Hôtel de Ville, it swiftly became part of the cultural heart of Paris: a democratic, accessible space of all Parisians, where craftsmanship and urban life were celebrated. After the inauguration of the Art Nouveau rotonda in 1913 and the outbreak of World War I, BHV expanded its offerings to include home goods, fashion and lifestyle products, thereby solidifying its significance in the Parisian market. BHV was a symbol of elegance and progress. A temple of Parisian retail that maintained its identity and soul despite cultural, political and social changes.
In great contrast, Shein was founded in 2008 by Xu Yangtian as an online store for wedding dresses. It has become one of the largest global ultra-fast-fashion retailers, shipping to more than 150 countries in less than two decades. Known for its extremely low prices, Shein sells clothing, beauty and home goods. Unlike BHV, the two-billion-dollar giant has a highly impersonal, price-driven business model and is the biggest facilitator of global consumption.
How TikTok and Gen Z Are Driving the Rise of Shein in Paris
Once celebrated as the global capital of haute couture and slow fashion, Paris now faces the challenge of redefining these titles amid profound demographic and socio-cultural changes.
With Gen Z representing 18% of France’s population and often described as the most eco-conscious generation, the clash between tradition and immediacy has never been so strong. Yet statistics reveal a paradox: 72.2% of France’s TikTok users are under 24, and their shopping habits are increasingly shaped by viral micro-trends. At the same time, France accounted for 5.93% of Shein’s global website traffic by February 2025, demonstrating the brand’s powerful grip on French youth culture.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Eco-conscious yet trend-driven, French Gen Z fuels Shein’s rise through TikTok micro-trends and viral shopping culture
These figures show that the city, once celebrated for its savoir-faire and heritage, is now wrestling with its identity in a new landscape—one where digital progress and ethical awareness coexist uneasily.
What makes Shein’s arrival in France even more striking is how it clashes head-on with everything the country has long stood for under the banner of “Made in France.” The label has become synonymous with quality, heritage, and, above all, ethics and sustainability.
Shein’s Hidden Cost: Pollution, Waste and the Price of Ultra-Fast Fashion
Publishing up to 10,000 new items on their website each day, Shein embodies the extreme acceleration of ultra-fast fashion.
Shein’s operations emitted over 16.2 million tons of CO2 in 2023—with the claim that they will reduce these greenhouse gas emissions by 25% by 2030—and it is considered to contribute significantly to the 92 million tons of textile waste generated by the industry each year. All of this makes it one of the most polluting fashion companies in the world.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Shein’s ultra-fast model drives massive emissions and textile waste, raising global concerns over fashion’s sustainability and carbon footprint
In addition to its environmental footprint, Shein has faced multiple allegations of unethical labour practices, including child labour and exploitative working conditions within its Chinese factories, where employees reportedly work up to 75 hours per week.
All these findings have also been highlighted by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), further cementing Shein’s position as one of the least sustainable and most controversial players in the global fashion industry.
France Says No to Fast Fashion—But Yes to Shein?
Ironically, the clearest contradiction in France’s push for sustainable fashion and the “Made in France” ideal came to light with the 2024 legislation targeting ultra-fast fashion. The legislation introduced steep penalties on fast-fashion items based on their environmental footprint, with fines of up to €10,000 per product for the most harmful to the planet.
Shein’s physical arrival in Paris has ignited a deep debate among politicians, business leaders, the media, and the public—especially within Gen Z. Yet, this conversation is anything but simple.
Through the windows of BHV Le Marais—once a proud symbol of craftsmanship and heritage—we now glimpse another side of fashion: faster, more accessible, and undeniably more exploitative. Something, perhaps, moins à la française.
Isabella Pierantoni
Master’s in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Paris