Is it possible to predict the success of a perfume? Experts answer—albeit cautiously—that it is not. Anticipating how much a fragrance will be appreciated is challenging, even when, on paper, it meets every quality requirement: olfactory balance, refined raw materials and creative coherence.

So what are the fundamental criteria that can pave the way to success? Istituto Marangoni Milano will address this question on 20 March at 4:30 pm, at Palazzo Turati, with a talk offering a broad and interdisciplinary exploration of the world of fragrances, titled: “How Is a Successful Perfume Born? From the Creative Genius of the ‘Nose’ to the Power of a Brand Idea and the Launch Strategy.”

The event, organised by Istituto Marangoni Milano, is part of the Accademia del Profumo’s programme dedicated to olfactory culture from 20 to 22 March, coinciding with international celebrations of perfume. The Fragrance Day, in fact, falls on 21 March. The panel at Palazzo Turati will bring together distinguished guests: Gianluca Toniolo, President of the Accademia del Profumo; Eugénie Briot, History & Transmission Project Manager at the fragrance composition house Givaudan; and Master Perfumer Gaël Montero, also from Givaudan.

Behind the Scenes of Olfactory Creation

A perfume, as is well known, reflects the society in which it is created. At times, it can even anticipate its desires and needs. In recent years, fragrance has become an indispensable amulet for feeling happier and for expressing identity—the essential finishing touch to one’s look.

Two legendary couture figures understood this perfectly, gifting the world masterpieces of perfumery that became icons just as their fashion creations did: Mademoiselle Chanel and Christian Dior. While Chanel played a pioneering role, many other brilliant fashion figures followed this path. Among them was Elsa Schiaparelli, who in 1937 launched Shocking, a fragrance that became famous not only for its composition but also for its iconic bottle, inspired by the curves of the American actress Mae West—a symbol of sensuality and provocation. 

During the talk, the three speakers will explain how, over nearly a century, the perfume market has evolved through ongoing dialogue between creativity, marketing and technological innovation. They will also discuss how a fragrance’s launch strategy is developed: from the initial brief, to collaboration between the perfumer and the brand, and finally to the definition of the product’s narrative and commercial identity.

From this meeting between imagination and strategy, the magic of a new perfume emerges—its debut into the world, its dialogue with the public, and the ever-unpredictable chance of becoming a success. It is a fascinating journey into the world of fragrances and into the often-invisible mechanisms that come into play when notes, like a dream, are released into the air.