Let’s explore some books that capture the vibe of gloomy London. Sometimes, it’s better to embrace the atmosphere rather than resist it
As winter creeps in, London takes on that signature gloomy feel that you can’t quite get anywhere else. With the spooky season approaching, we’re all about dusting off our warmest clothes, finding cute cafés for pumpkin spice lattes, and spending a bit more time indoors, watching films or diving into a good book.
But there’s one mood that only a few truly experience in depth: the infamous “dark mood.” Instead of resisting it, why not embrace it and take a look at some books that match this feeling? After all, sometimes it’s better to go with the seasonal vibe rather than push against it. Let’s start with a theme that has long captivated fashion designers: the celebration of the human body—and, at times, the extremes it can endure.
“Fetishism in Fashion” by Lidewij Edelkoort
In “Fetishism in Fashion,” internationally renowned trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort delves into the fetishistic world of contemporary fashion, revealing a daring and instinctive future for style and culture.
The book explores the provocative and symbolic aspects of clothing and accessories in modern fashion, “from our fundamental need to cover ourselves to the eccentric extremes to which our desires can take us on the quest for beauty.”
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It’s a book for many, as it looks into the evolution of taste from birth to adulthood, the rising popularity of high-heeled shoes, the psychology of branding, the impact of infantilism, the significance of the colour black, fetishism, the relationship between architecture, fashion, and the human body—and many other fascinating topics.
“Bolder, more outlandish styles are on the fashion horizon, making this book a key reference in a new era of experimentation and intense creativity … unveiling the intimate ties that bind us” – Lidewij Edelkoort
Visually rich with photography, the book sources talent from across the globe, focusing on innovative and original content that illustrates a dramatic shift in aesthetics.
“Dressing Dangerously” by Jonathan Faiers
Is cinema influencing fashion, or is it the other way around? Fashion certainly speaks to mainstream cinema, often suggesting that clothing in films is “dysfunctional”. Interestingly, it’s usually the more subtle items that resonate with audiences, while at other times, fashion fails to deliver, leaving viewers uncomfortable.
For styling students with a passion for cinema and photography, “Dressing Dangerously: Dysfunctional Fashion in Film” by writer, lecturer, and artist Jonathan Faiers is a must-read.
This thought-provoking book examines the challenging and sometimes sinister roles that fashion has played in the history of cinema.
“Black in Fashion” by Valerie Mendes
Dramatic, stylish, sophisticated, or rebellious, the colour black has always been a powerful force in the world of fashion. From the iconic “little black dress” created by Chanel in the 1920s to the deconstructed designs of Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons in the 1980s, black continues to serve as a timeless muse for designers across the globe.
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If black is your signature, “Black in Fashion” by fashion and textiles historian Valerie D. Mendes, former Head of Fashion and Textiles at the V&A, celebrates the innovators who made black a constant in fashion, including Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, and Vivienne Westwood.
This stylish book includes commissioned photographs, line drawings, and close-ups, all elegantly presented in an unforgettable monochrome palette.
“Protest!” by Liz McQuiston
Visual artists and graphic designers will find this book captivating. Discover the power and impact of protest art with “Protest! A History of Social and Political Protest Graphics” by graphic designer and independent scholar Liz McQuiston.
As the title suggests, the book provides an authoritative, richly illustrated history of social and political protest graphics from around the world. It features hundreds of the finest examples of posters, prints, murals, graffiti, political cartoons, and other creative graphic forms that have been used in protests throughout history and continue to be used today.
“Protest! documents the vital role of the visual arts in the fight for freedom and change” – Liz McQuiston
There is much to discover in this book, as it examines how graphics have been used to expose injustice, protest wars, satirise authority, demand equal rights, and fight against discrimination. Advertising, comics, posters and postcards, murals and graffiti, flags and digital graphics are all collected as a visual testimony to the contemporary world, which can be both joyful and brutal. As the author poignantly states, “When viewing this book, don’t just observe the past. Feel the present.”
Silvia De Vecchi
University Librarian, London