I wish you a serene and ‘Green’ Christmas, with the added touch of ‘fashionable’ to maintain our focus. In my view, there is no better wish, especially at this pivotal moment. It is the ideal sentiment for the new generations aspiring to study and work in fashion.
Fashionistas making their entrance at a fashion show
Considering that fashion is responsible for 8 and 10% of global emissions and 20% of wastewater and is itself a victim of these negative impacts, this wish takes on even greater significance. It’s worth noting that, in addition to threatening access to essential resources such as water and the very survival of many species, climate change is already affecting fashion supply chains, as seen in the scarcity of raw materials due to floods and droughts in major cotton-producing countries. These factors are influencing current purchasing patterns and consumer approaches.
Details captured from the runway
Despite recent efforts by fashion companies to set climate targets, greenhouse gas emissions in the sector could increase by 45% by 2030, posing a significant threat. In order to address the repercussions of climate change, the fashion industry will first need to undergo a profound restructuring process. This process involves the entire production chain and, even before that, the mindset that is deeply rooted in the current corporate culture as well as in consumers.
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In Dubai, COP28 (the 2023 United Nations Climate Change Conference, also known as the 28th meeting of the Conference of the Parties to the UNFCCC) invited major players in the sector, such as LVMH, Global Fashion Agenda, and Fashion Revolution. COP28 UAE represented a crucial moment in reassessing international commitment and pushing towards more ambitious actions. On this occasion, groups of trade unions and climate activists, including Fashion Revolution, Stand.earth, and Eco-Age, appealed to large fashion brands with a list of requests aimed at greater transparency regarding the environmental impact of their production and distribution, the origins and composition of the materials used, as well as the conditions and rights of the workers involved.
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At the Pioneering Fashion Sustainability conference on December 1st, for example, Stella McCartney herself contributed to creating awareness around the enormous environmental impact of fashion. She criticised fast fashion (which she considers a “criminal crime”), discussed the saturation point reached by the entire system (judging the number of brands present nowadays as simply “unsustainable”), and commented on consumer behaviour. “People are central to the conversation,” McCartney said to The Telegraph. “If they didn’t buy that stuff, there would be no supply of that stuff,” she added in relation to ‘disposable’ fashion.
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Also worth highlighting is the intervention of the Italian entrepreneur and innovator Federico Marchetti, the founder of Yoox, who now focuses on sustainability by collaborating with the Sustainable Markets Initiative (SMI) task force led by His Majesty King Charles III of England. “I spoke about my two dreams that are becoming reality,” Marchetti shared with the Italian newspaper Repubblica. “We launched and implemented the digital garment passport ahead of the European Union’s request. And we initiated two innovative regenerative agroforestry projects.”
What is the digital passport for clothing? It is a programme that allows consumers to view all the details about the materials, production methods, and instructions on how to correctly recycle their clothing through a simple scan with a smartphone. Can there be a more responsible approach than this?
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Master Course Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan
