How to preserve a fashion archive? Inside 90 years of Istituto Marangoni
Celebrating 90 years, Istituto Marangoni unveils its historic fashion archive and stories behind nine decades of Italian fashion education and heritage
To celebrate the 90th anniversary of Istituto Marangoni, the school undertook an ambitious project to reconstruct its historical fashion archive. Simona Schiappucci, a Senior Lecturer for Master’s Programmes at Istituto Marangoni Milano, played a significant role in this initiative, drawing on her expertise within the institution. She shares her personal journey in uncovering this rich fashion heritage.
Schiappucci’s work also contributed to the exhibition FUTURES ARCHIVE, which opened on 27 September at the newly inaugurated Palazzo Turati campus in Milan. Curated by Alessandro Castiglioni and creatively supervised by Francesco Fioretto, the exhibition reimagines nine decades of the school’s history, blending fashion, art, cinema, and literature to craft a narrative that honours the past while boldly looking towards the future.
Istituto Marangoni’s 90th Anniversary at Palazzo Turati
Everything began in September 2024, when Stefania Valenti, Managing Director of Istituto Marangoni, announced the celebrations for the school’s 90th anniversary, coinciding with the move to the historic Palazzo Turati on Via Meravigli in Milan. Today, this extraordinary campus serves not only as a home for students but also as a proud custodian of the school’s fashion archive, preserving nine decades of pioneering education and Italian fashion heritage for future generations. Now, let us take a step back to a year earlier.
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Snapshots from the inauguration of the new Milan campus at Palazzo Turati
Shortly after Valenti’s announcement, I was approached with a proposal that initially filled me with doubt: to help reconstruct the history of Istituto Marangoni, from its founding in 1935 to the present day. By that time, much of the school’s historical fashion archive had been almost entirely lost due to various circumstances. Being invited to participate in this project felt deeply personal to me, as I had been part of the school for over 35 years—first as a student, and later as a lecturer. Perhaps that is exactly why they thought of me.
Despite my initial hesitation—the task seemed monumental—I decided to accept. This decision may have been driven by a deep curiosity to uncover a history that felt profoundly my own, or perhaps it was an unconscious personal challenge. Thus began my journey into the heart of the heart of Istituto Marangoni, as I wove through recollections, faces, and stories of those who, like me, had been part of this extended fashion education family, united by creativity and passion.
Inside the early days of Istituto Marangoni: Giulio Marangoni and his son shaping Italy’s new generation of fashion designers
Rediscovering Fashion Heritage: Stories and Encounters
My first meaningful encounter was with Mrs Marisa Prina, born in 1936, the mother of a recent acquaintance I had never met personally. When she recounted her experiences at Istituto Marangoni in the 1950s, I was immediately drawn into her story.
It felt as if we had known each other for years. When I shared that I had also studied at Istituto Marangoni and had been teaching there for many years, a quiet understanding passed between us. She spoke of her work, which involved drawing, small mannequins, paper models, patterns, and fabrics. It became clear to me that IM is more than a school; it is a connection that transcends time, age, and generations. We both felt part of something that endured beyond our individual experiences.
Giorgio Marangoni’s Piccolo Atlante Storico della Moda, a colourful illustrated journey through 45 centuries of costume history
With generosity, she entrusted me with a portion of her historical material, including her two diplomas from 1953 and 1958, as well as the first publication of a booklet detailing the “Marangoni Method(s),” a cornerstone of fashion education in Italy.
Reconstructing Istituto Marangoni’s Fashion Archive: An Emotional Journey
As my research progressed, I met others who were equally willing to help reconstruct the school’s past. Some were familiar to me, while others I met for the first time, but they still shared fashion history materials and personal memories without hesitation.
This research turned into an emotional journey through Italian fashion, involving everyone: former students, past lecturers, and current faculty who had once been students themselves.
A vintage brochure cover from Istituto Artistico dell’Abbigliamento Marangoni Milano, blending sartorial elegance with graphic experimentation
Sharing our stories transported us back in time. For a few precious moments, we became once again those young students sitting at our desks, filled with curiosity, dedication, and a love for the fashion world—a passion that had quietly shaped the very essence of the institution.
From the earliest publications in 1948, in which Giulio Marangoni outlined his method for tailoring garments, to tempera sketches of the 1950s and 1960s, and continuing through the decades to the present day—not only drawings and illustrations but also CDs of fashion shows, course brochures, school newsletters, handouts on art history, pattern-making techniques, colour theory, weaving, three books on costume history, and memorabilia (such as folders for storing patterns, millimetre rulers, tailor’s tape marked with Marangoni logos, and the first Marangoni bag)—every document, pattern, sketch, or textile drawing allowed me to trace the school’s fashion heritage, rediscover its past, and feel a connection to all those who contributed to its growth.
Archival spread showcasing Marangoni’s educational resources: historical costume texts, pattern-making guides, and classroom mannequins from early fashion training years
Istituto Marangoni Turns 90: Fashion Heritage Across Generations
Exploring the history of Istituto Marangoni was more than a research project; it revealed to me that Istituto Marangoni is like a family, uniting people through a shared dedication to fashion, creativity, and beauty. This community transcends time and generations, carrying a common spirit across nine decades.
As I collected these pieces of history, I realised that we are all bound by the same curiosity, ambition, and experiences that shape us. This is the enduring strength of Istituto Marangoni: a vibrant spirit that continues to grow and evolve while remaining rooted in its origins.
I would like to thank everyone who supported me on this journey: those who shared memories, entrusted me with materials, and generously offered their time. Every contribution has helped bring to life a history that belongs not only to me but also to all who have shaped the legacy of Istituto Marangoni—one of Italy’s foremost fashion schools, now celebrating ninety years of continuous education and innovation. Warmest congratulations to our school!