When did perfume start smelling like dessert? Inside the rise of gourmand fragrances
Banana, pistachio, and warm apple pie are changing the way perfume smells. Once seen as quirky novelties, gourmand fragrances are now one of the defining movements in niche perfumery. Based on a first-hand visit to Esxence 2026 in Milan, this piece explores how familiar flavours have found a place in artistic perfumery, revealing a new perspective on the connection between scent and emotion.
I never thought a banana could smell so elegant until I visited Esxence 2026 in Milan, the international exhibition dedicated to artistic perfumery. As a beauty and make-up student, I arrived expecting to discover new fragrances; I left reflecting on the invisible power of perfume: its ability to tell us who we are, evoke memories, and make a look truly unforgettable.
@odour.fragrances Unique Gourmand Fragrance Discovery at Esxence 2026 #cologne #fragrance #perfume #fyp ♬ Parisian Lights - The Brazilians of Bossa Nova
If one trend defined this year’s fair, it was the rise of gourmand fragrances: scents inspired by desserts, fruit, and unexpected edible notes that are transforming the contemporary fragrance scene and opening new directions for artistic perfumery.
Why Gourmand Fragrances Are Suddenly Everywhere
At Esxence 2026, every stand felt like a different universe. As brands presented their perfumes, they told stories through colours, objects, ingredients, installations, and emotions. Some displays were intense, almost spiritual; others were playful and surprising. But each had something to say.
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As someone passionate about beauty, I realised that perfume has more in common with make-up than I ever imagined. Neither is really about looking better. Both are ways of creating a mood, a presence, even a version of yourself. A lipstick, a perfectly drawn eyeliner, or a fragrance can define not only how others see you, but also how you choose to see and express yourself.
Inside Esxence: Where Artistic and Niche Perfumery Sets Tomorrow’s Trends
My favourite stand was Gourmet. It felt like an imaginary dinner party, combining patisserie, luxury, and perfume: desserts, citrus fruits, chocolate, golden details and bottles displayed like little sweets waiting to be tasted on the skin.
The most surprising feature was an interactive machine: you placed your arm inside, pressed a button, and fragrance was sprayed directly onto your skin. It was playful, theatrical, and impossible to forget.
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One perfume that really stayed with me—emotionally, too—was Jany by Sora Dora. It immediately brought me back home: warm apple pie, flour, sugar, a cosy kitchen, and childhood memories. More than the sweetness, it was the sense of returning somewhere familiar, a place I thought I’d forgotten, that lingered.
And then there was Naked Bänänä by S. – Esse Strikes the Notes. A banana accord that could have easily seemed childish was instead bright, sophisticated, and almost provocative, proving that gourmand perfumes can move far beyond the expected and become a true expression of luxury.
The Stories Hidden Behind Every Niche Fragrance
I was also captivated by Calé Fragranze d’Autore’s installation for Thesaurus, inspired by the phrase “Grow slow, Glow deep:” an invitation to slow down and seek something more meaningful, even through perfume.
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As the artistic perfumery house explains, Thesaurus is built around three key ingredients—iris, saffron, and Australian sandalwood—each chosen to embody the very idea of a treasure. Iris, at once buttery and icy, lends the niche fragrance understated elegance and symbolises openness to new experiences. Saffron, with its spicy, bittersweet and subtly metallic character, brings depth and refinement. Australian sandalwood, with its creamy, velvety facets, grounds the composition with warmth and a sense of permanence.
We also met Filippo Sorcinelli, an organist and multifaceted entrepreneur who now creates niche fragrances under his own name, and Dario Piccirillo, a content creator with an infectious passion for the art of perfume. These two very different encounters made me realise how luxury fragrance can become a form of identity, art, and personal storytelling.
I left Esxence convinced that the future of artistic and niche perfumery isn’t about chasing ever more unusual ingredients, just as the rise of gourmand fragrances isn’t really about smelling like dessert. It’s about transforming the familiar into something unexpected, awakening the senses, stirring emotions and, above all, doing so through exceptional craftsmanship and high-quality raw materials.
Alessandra Occhipinti
Student, Milano