Milan Fashion Week SS27 designers to watch: The Istituto Marangoni connection
Istituto Marangoni alumni and emerging designers to watch at Milan Fashion Week SS27, from Dhruv Kapoor and The Attico to Lug Von Siga and Des Phemmes
Milan Fashion Week SS27 has no shortage of names to watch. The less obvious story is where many of them began: Istituto Marangoni. Dhruv Kapoor returns with his namesake label; Andrea Pompilio brings Onitsuka Tiger to the runway; Gilda Ambrosio presents The Attico; Gul Agis shows Lug Von Siga; Salvo Rizza brings Des Phemmes to Via Meravigli. Around them, younger labels and a new headwear debut extend the story beyond the main runway.
The official CNMI programme runs from 22 to 28 September 2026 and includes 203 appointments: 61 fashion shows, 88 presentations, and 54 events. Carlo Capasa, President of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, notes, “The strength of Milan Fashion Week lies in its ability to bring together the different dimensions of creative fashion: the major brands and the emerging talents who are imagining the future of our industry.”
This guide spotlights the Istituto Marangoni alumni and emerging names worth watching during that crowded week.
Which Istituto Marangoni Alumni Are Showing on the Milan Fashion Week SS27 Runway?
The Istituto Marangoni connection is especially visible among the houses staging runway shows. These designers have taken different routes into the industry, from founding eponymous houses to leading global sportswear and luxury womenswear brands.
- Dhruv Kapoor: Indian Heritage, Milanese Tailoring, Multicultural Approach
Dhruv Kapoor returns to the Milan schedule with the latest collection from his namesake label, presented on 22 September. His work pairs Indian colour, craft, and cultural references with Milanese tailoring, streetwear, and contemporary design in a visual language that resonates internationally.
He moved to Milan in 2011, completed a Master’s degree at Istituto Marangoni, and later joined ETRO’s womenswear design team. Now, as an Istituto Marangoni mentor, he extends his work into educating the next generation.
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- Andrea Pompilio for Onitsuka Tiger: Japanese Legacy Meets Sportswear
Onitsuka Tiger, under Andrea Pompilio, takes the runway on 23 September. A graduate of Istituto Marangoni’s Fashion Design master’s course, Pompilio has been the brand’s Creative Director since 2017.
His work fuses sportswear, Japanese heritage, and contemporary design. The result is a dialogue between utility and fashion that has become central to Onitsuka Tiger’s identity.
- Gilda Ambrosio and The Attico: Ten Years of Modern Glamour
The Attico, co-founded by Istituto Marangoni alumna Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, presents on 25 September.
Founded in 2016, the brand reaches its tenth year with a language built around bold femininity, modern glamour, and unexpected contrasts. Ambrosio graduated in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Milano Fashion in 2013 and returned to the school in 2021 for its “Discover Your Talent” mentorship project.
The Attico made its official Milan Fashion Week debut in 2023. Its presence on the SS27 calendar marks another stage in the evolution of a label that moved quickly from independent launch to global recognition.
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Which Independent Fashion Brands Are on the Milan Fashion Week SS27 Programme?
The programme broadens the narrative beyond the runway. Presentations, events, and Fashion Hub initiatives bring different regional and material perspectives into the week, with Istituto Marangoni’s influence appearing through its founders, creative directors, and mentors.
- Misenithe: A New Milan Label on the SS27 Presentation Schedule
Misenithe appears in the SS27 presentation schedule on 22 September. Founded in Milan in 2025 by Lucia Borini and Anna Lardì, the brand blends contemporary tailoring, Made in Italy production, and a precise approach to accessories.
Both founders studied Fashion Design Womenswear & Accessories at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Misenithe stands as a clear example of fashion education leading directly to the creation of a new label, rather than a career within an established house.
- Saman Loira: Nature and Craft from Naples to Milan
Saman Loira appears on the SS27 programme with a presentation on 22 September and an evening event on 23 September. Co-founded by alumnus Francesco Corcione and Francesco Canessa, the Neapolitan label draws on nature, craftsmanship, and a sensibility that balances dream and structure.
The brand also features in the Fashion Hub programme, marking a particularly significant season for the label. With a growing reputation for its distinctive aesthetic and evolving creative identity, Saman Loira is an emerging name to watch.
As part of the programme, the label is featured in The Apartment, a CNMI Fashion Trust initiative supporting a new generation of designers. Now in its second edition, The Apartment is a multidisciplinary space dedicated to fostering dialogue between fashion and art. Throughout the week, it hosts a solo exhibition by Fabio De Felice alongside a programme of presentations and performances by independent designers, including Saman Loira.
The label’s presence adds a regional, independent dimension to Milan Fashion Week. Its work introduces artisanal techniques and a strong sense of place into the contemporary fashion landscape.
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- Alessandro Enriquez: Italian Identity Beyond Clothing
Designer, illustrator, and storyteller, Alessandro Enriquez has built a creative universe rooted in colour and Italian culture. An alumnus of Istituto Marangoni Milano, he appears on the CNMI calendar on 23 September, while WHITE Milano has named him Guest Designer for its edition running from 24 to 27 September.
For the occasion, Enriquez brings to WHITE a project that transcends the typical fashion collection, offering an expansive exploration of his creative universe. Fashion, design, food, and lifestyle converge in his work. Through this multidisciplinary vision, he continues to celebrate the references and traditions that define his practice.
The CNMI calendar also lists an event with Cappellini on 23 September, further highlighting Enriquez’s interest in fashion as a broad cultural language.
- Gul Agis and Lug Von Siga: A First Appearance on the Milan Fashion Week SS27 Calendar
Lug Von Siga presents on 23 September. Its founder and Creative Director, Gul Agis, is an Istituto Marangoni alumna who graduated in 2000.
Through her label, Lug Von Siga has developed a sophisticated vision that combines artisanal savoir-faire with contemporary femininity. Season after season, the brand continues to expand its international profile while maintaining a strong focus on craftsmanship and material innovation. For SS27, the brand joins the official Milan Fashion Week calendar for the first time, presenting its collection through a dedicated showcase.
- Taller Marmo: Milan Eveningwear on the SS27 Calendar
Taller Marmo presents on 24 September. Founded by Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea, the Milan-based label is known for fluid occasionwear, dramatic gowns and a contemporary reading of old-school glamour.
Its collections are made in Italy by experienced artisans. The brand’s place on the calendar reflects the enduring allure of eveningwear when presented with a distinctive point of view.
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- Salvo Rizza and Des Phemmes: A Contemporary Take on Couture Detail
Des Phemmes presents on 24 September at Via Meravigli 7. Founded in 2019 by Istituto Marangoni alumnus Salvo Rizza, the label merges couture-level detailing with contemporary silhouettes.
Rizza’s journey—from the Milan School of Fashion to Giambattista Valli, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Pucci, and Max Mara—has given Des Phemmes a precise understanding of how to make embellishment feel current.
Who Are the New Designers to Watch Beyond Milan Fashion Week’s Main Runway?
The official runways and presentations are just one facet of Milan Fashion Week. The Fashion Hub creates a different kind of visibility, connecting emerging designers with the wider fashion system.
- Dafne Maio’s Dadamax: Emerging Fashion from Campania
Dafne Maio’s Dadamax is featured in the exhibition Mediterranea. Talenti Emergenti in Campania, as part of the Campania initiative at the CNMI Fashion Hub.
The project was previewed at Museo Bagatti Valsecchi on 21 September and remains part of the Fashion Hub programme throughout the week. Dadamax exemplifies a new generation of designers translating local culture into a contemporary fashion language, before their work is confined to fixed categories.
+1. The Debut of IZZA Milano’s Hat Fatale: Sculptural Leather Headwear
Another debut of the week is IZZA Milano, founded and creatively led by Ioana Izabela Puie. Through Hat Fatale, its first collection, Puie focuses on nine sculptural leather headpieces designed to frame the face and alter the wearer’s presence.
Originally from Transylvania and now based in Milan, Puie studied Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni before specialising in photography and millinery. Made in Italy within the Marche manufacturing district, the collection places headwear at the intersection of fashion object and personal statement.
What Does the Istituto Marangoni Connection Reveal About Milan Fashion Week?
The Istituto Marangoni connection does not yield a single aesthetic; instead, it opens different routes into fashion: a namesake label, a global sportswear house, a luxury womenswear house, a regional project, and a new wardrobe accessory.
Some of these names are already established in the international fashion system, while others are using Milan to stake their first claim. Together, they offer a sharper way to look at SS27—not as a hierarchy of the biggest shows, but as a record of how fashion languages emerge and enter public view.
Silvia Tarini
Author and editor, Milano
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