For fragrance professionals, Esxence is an unmissable event, almost a pilgrimage, offering the opportunity to discover new fragrances, emerging brands, and the trends shaping the future of perfumery. This year, Milan’s leading exhibition dedicated to artistic perfumery exceeded expectations once again: more than 400 brands (108 of them making their debut) from 40 countries showcased their creations across 20,000 square metres of exhibition space, attracting 20,000 visitors, many under the age of 30. «This has been our biggest edition ever, both in terms of attendance and the scale of the cultural project we are building», said Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit. 

Students from the Fragrances & Cosmetics course at Istituto Marangoni Milano once again had the chance to meet leading figures in this rapidly growing sector during an eye-opening visit. «We spoke directly with brand owners, creatives and artistic directors», says Lavinia Belloni Carreras, a student at Istituto Marangoni Milano. Among the most significant encounters were those with Filippo Sorcinelli, a leading figure in Italian artistic perfumery, and Dario Piccirillo, content creator and passionate advocate of artistic fragrances, as well as founder of the brand Ipiccirilli. Informal conversations at the booths often led to meaningful exchanges. «It was truly an amazing experience». 

Among the brands that made the strongest impression on the students at Istituto Marangoni Milano were the Korean label Born to Stand Out, founded by designer Jun Lim in 2022, and the French house Etat Libre d'Orange, known for its bold irreverence. Yet it was some of the smaller Italian brands that truly surprised them. «We fell in love with Profumi d’Autore, founded in 2017 as an olfactory atelier in Imola, where refined artisanal products go hand in hand with a commitment to supporting small producers», Lavinia shares. «And then there was Naso Profumi, a brand dedicated to reviving the ancient art of perfumery through an authentic and sustainable approach». It’s in these lesser-known stands that Esxence reveals one of its most fascinating dimensions: an ecosystem driven by vision and identity.

THE MAJOR TRENDS

When it comes to trends, the exhibition confirmed two movements shaping today’s contemporary artistic perfumery. On one side, there is the comeback of green, clean and minimalist notes—a fresh take on simplicity. On the other, gourmand compositions continue to gain momentum, with vanilla remaining a central ingredient and an increasing fascination with Asian cultures expressed through culinary-inspired notes such as matcha, sake, yuzu and rice. These ingredients show how the industry’s geographical boundaries are expanding, with the Middle East contributing opulent and intense compositions, while Japan offers a more contemplative, subtle approach. This year’s theme, Sensing The World, emerged as a sensory map spanning every continent.

Packaging continues to be a playground for experimentation. From materials derived from natural waste to caps turned into design objects and bottles that communicate identity before you even open them, there’s a growing emphasis on storytelling through design. Lavinia highlights the importance of participating in an event like Esxence, which extends far beyond the appeal of fragrances and their connection to luxury. «It completely opens your eyes to a world that comes close to spirituality, where emerging talents are playing an increasingly significant role». It’s a world full of young designers and creators who push themselves every day to transform one of the most important industries in the luxury sector and guide its evolution.