Why perfume collecting is booming (and why it’s more than just a hobby)
Why are more people collecting perfume? Fragrance expert Marco Martello explores the rise of fragrance collecting, scent memory and the stories bottles can hold
People no longer buy perfume just to wear it: they collect it. Once reserved for art, fashion, and design objects , collecting has become part of fragrance culture too, fuelled by a growing fascination with niche perfumery, vintage bottles, and craftsmanship. But what turns a fragrance into something worth keeping for years? And what does it really mean to collect scent? Editor Silvia Tarini spoke with expert and author Marco Martello about perfume collecting, identity, ritual, and why it has become one of today’s most fascinating cultural obsessions.
We often talk about collecting fashion, art and design—but why not perfume? Over the years, fragrances have come to be valued far beyond their immediate purpose, appreciated not only for their scent but also for their bottle design and the emotions they preserve long after the last spray. Some fragrances are rediscovered decades later, captivating a new generation of fragrance lovers, including Gen Z. In this conversation, fragrance expert Marco Martello explores the rise of perfume collecting and the enduring connection between scent, memory, and personal identity.
How to Start a Perfume Collection
What does it mean to collect fragrances?
Marco Martello: It really depends on the person. For me, collecting fragrances isn’t about displaying dozens of bottles in a cabinet and admiring them from time to time. My collection is something I actively live with every day. It’s constantly evolving, growing, changing. What makes it a collection is the theme behind it. In my case, that’s saffron. I own well over a hundred fragrances centred around that note, and I wear them according to my mood, the occasion, the season, or simply how I feel at any given moment. Some fragrances I wear once and never revisit, while others become tied to a particular trip or experience. I often choose a fragrance to accompany a journey so that, years later, the scent itself can bring me back to those memories.
Do perfume collectors actually wear their fragrances?
Marco Martello: Of course, although there are collectors who preserve their bottles untouched, opening them occasionally to smell them and relive memories without ever applying the fragrance to their skin. There are also two very different approaches to collecting: some people seek out discontinued, vintage, or even antique fragrances, while others focus on scents that are currently available on the market.
Are Vintage Perfumes Worth Collecting?
What makes a vintage perfume truly collectible?
Marco Martello: Vintage collecting is often more about preservation than wearability. Over time, a fragrance may change, and there’s no guarantee it will retain its original scent.
Can a perfume bottle become a collectible in its own right?
Marco Martello: In some cases, the bottle itself becomes the real collectible. I remember visiting Maison Francis Kurkdjian during a press trip, where I discovered the Edition Millesime by Baccarat Rouge 540 presented in an extraordinary crystal flacon. What struck me most was meeting a Baccarat collector who wanted to purchase the bottle as an object of art, not for the fragrance. Seeing the craftsmanship behind each piece, with hundreds of bottles discarded before a flawless one is approved, made me realise that creations like these go far beyond perfumery: they are expressions of design, savoir-faire, and artistry.
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Why Bottle Design Matters in Fragrance
How important is a bottle’s design when choosing a fragrance?
Marco Martello: I would like to say that only the fragrance matters, but that’s not entirely true. Ultimately, it’s the scent that lingers with people, rather than the bottle sitting on a shelf. At the same time, we all are influenced by aesthetics. If a bottle fails to catch my eye or reflect a certain identity, I am probably less likely to reach for it in the first place. It’s human nature.
“Today, a successful fragrance project must function as a complete universe. The scent is essential, but so are the visual identity, storytelling, communication, packaging, and bottle design. Perfume is more than just a fragrance. It’s a dream, an attitude, an aspiration. The bottle is often the first chapter of that story” – Marco Martello, Fragrance Expert, Beauty Director, Scent Editor and Journalist
Have you ever regretted buying a perfume blind?
Marco Martello: I never blind buy. Sometimes people discover a fragrance they love this way, but more often than not, disappointment follows. The only exception is when someone collects the work of a particular perfumer. If you admire a nose such as Olivier Cresp, Maurice Roucel, or Jean-Claude Ellena, you may want every creation they release regardless of whether it becomes a personal favourite. Otherwise, I generally advise against blind buying. Perfumes evolve differently on each person, and our own tastes evolve over time as well. Fragrance is something that deserves patience and discovery. Buying blindly sometimes feels like approaching perfume with a fast-fashion mentality, and I think fragrance deserves something more thoughtful than that.
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Inside Marco Martello’s Perfume Collection
How big is your perfume collection today?
Marco Martello: I own around a hundred fragrances, although the number is always changing. Some bottles are finished and never replaced, while others join the collection unexpectedly.
Which fragrances mean the most to you?
Marco Martello: There are a few fragrances I always keep close. One is Dormir al Sol by Frassaï, an Argentinian fragrance inspired by the feeling of relaxing outdoors under the sun: it’s incredibly calming and evokes a deep connection with nature. Another is Fleur d’Anger by Thomas De Monaco, which I’m wearing today. Then there’s Saffron Wood by Parle Moi de Parfum, a natural choice considering my fascination with saffron. But the fragrance that holds the deepest emotional value for me is undoubtedly Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle. It was love at first smell. When I learned it was being discontinued, I found myself searching for every remaining bottle I could get my hands on. Today, I wear it very sparingly. It’s a fragrance that has accompanied me through some of the most significant moments of my life, both joyful and difficult. Over time, it has become a source of comfort, a familiar presence I return to whenever I need grounding, reassurance, or simply the feeling of being at home.
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Is there a more commercial fragrance that you particularly admire?
Marco Martello: Absolutely. The first fragrance that comes to mind is Eau Sauvage by Dior. It was the very first perfume I ever wore, largely because it was my father’s signature scent. Beyond the fragrance itself, it’s the ritual I remember most. I can still picture him using the splash version, carefully pouring out a few drops at a time. Those small gestures left a lasting impression on me and shaped the way I approach perfume today.
How to Apply Perfume Properly (and Make It Last)
What’s the best way to apply a fragrance?
Marco Martello: Traditionally, perfume is applied to pulse points: wrists, forearms, behind the knees, and the back of the neck. For women, the nape is particularly effective because the movement of the hair naturally diffuses the fragrance. One of my favourite historical tips comes from Coco Chanel, who recommended perfuming the hem of a skirt. As the wearer moves, the scent moves too, creating a subtle aura. I’m also a strong advocate for spraying fragrance on clothing. Perfume behaves differently on fabric than on skin: it tends to evolve less but often lasts much longer. Clothing can also be used creatively to build fragrance combinations and personalised scent signatures.
What Is Perfume Layering and How Does It Work?
Layering has become increasingly popular in recent years. Is it something you regularly incorporate into your fragrance routine?
Marco Martello: Very often, and not just with perfumes: I also combine scented creams, oils, and body products to create richer olfactory compositions.
How should beginners start perfume layering?
Marco Martello: I recommend starting with simple, single-note fragrances, as they are much easier to combine successfully. The more complex a fragrance becomes, the harder it is to create pairings that remain harmonious from the opening notes all the way to the dry-down.
How to Train Your Nose for Fragrance
What’s the best way to develop your sense of smell for fragrance?
Marco Martello: I think the nose works very much like the palate. Sometimes we claim not to like a fragrance when, in reality, we simply don’t understand it yet. A scent that feels unfamiliar or challenging today may become fascinating years from now. That doesn’t just happen because our tastes evolve, but because our knowledge grows. When we smell a fragrance, we tend to jump immediately to practical questions: How much does it cost? How long does it last? Is it worth buying? But perfume should also be approached as an artistic experience. A fragrance that lasts only a few hours isn’t necessarily worse than one that lasts all day; it may simply have been designed that way.
“Developing olfactory knowledge takes patience. Smelling individual raw materials, understanding how they have been combined, and learning to recognise them within a composition are all valuable exercises. Perfumers are, in many ways, illusionists. By combining different notes, they create impressions and memories that don’t actually exist within any single ingredient. That’s where the magic happens” – Marco Martello
What’s Next for the Fragrance Industry?
As both a fragrance collector and industry expert, what do you see on the horizon for the world of perfumery? We have been hearing for years about the growing role of technology in fragrance creation, but what kind of truly disruptive changes do you expect to see in the future?
Marco Martello: The fragrance industry is growing at an incredible pace, with an unprecedented number of new brands and launches emerging almost daily. At some point, the market will have to find a new balance. While consumer interest continues to rise, fragrance education is not keeping up. Many people still struggle to understand why one perfume costs €200 while another, seemingly similar, costs a fraction of that. Eventually, I believe the industry will enter a phase where authenticity becomes even more important. Brands with a genuine identity, a clear creative vision, and a meaningful point of difference will stand out. Those that simply replicate what’s already available may find it harder to stay relevant.
Why Perfume Is More Than Just a Scent
As we wrap up our conversation, I have one final question: what does perfume mean to you?
Marco Martello: Perfume is everything to me. It’s not something I wear only when I leave the house. I wear it before going to sleep. I wear it when I’m working. Fragrance has accompanied me through nearly every moment of my life, but more importantly, it’s helped me understand myself. I often say that fragrance has acted as a compass throughout my life, revealing aspects of my personality I never knew existed and helping me navigate emotions that words cannot express. For me, perfume goes far beyond smelling good or receiving compliments. Sometimes, the scent I choose reveals more about my emotional state than any conversation ever could.
And that’s what makes perfume so powerful: it’s not just something you wear. Sometimes, it’s a way of understanding who you are.
Silvia Tarini
Editor, Milano
